If you haven't worked on speedometers (or similar fiddly and delicate mechanisms) before, it's probably worth obtaining a cheap second hand unit to practice on. For me, this strategy worked well because I found that the fault in my speedo head [non working odometer] could be repaired by using a...

>>Could it be that the voltage stabilisation is off, and that the speedo gets a wrong voltage, for example? No, the voltage regulator is only for the fuel and temperature gauges. The speedometer and the mileage counter are not electrically powered. The speedo reading is determined by the...

You may have the wrong, or an inappropriate speedo head fitted. However, this may be helpful; http://obswww.unige.ch/%7Ewildif/cars/docs/Smith-jaeger_speedo_repair.pdf

I don't understand your point James - the scissor type doesn't put any load on the ball joint and cup - the load is only applied to the end of the threaded section of the shaft of the ball pin and the outer part of the taper. The only possible forms of damage to the joint is to the last thread...

No, the 40 degrees is not including the vacuum advance.

The green book gives 40 degrees of advance at the crank at 4500 rpm

Has there been some leakage between 1 & 2 also? There look to be some dark marks on the gasket. If so, is the head truly skimmed flat? As an example, if the milling machine had an adjustable head which wasn't truly at right angles to the bed of the machine, the cutter would cut a slight...

I haven't followed the story from the start, but, why was the head gasket changed to begin with?, ... is there a lurking root cause to look for?

It's interesting how the noise depends on the engine load. It might be possible to isolate the cylinder responsibe by repeating the engine rev test with each plug lead removed in turn. A compression test [snap! you said this while I was typing!] before you begin dismantling might also be...

I thought that when I bought one of those Lucas switches for the standard two type 380 brake lamps on my 109. It didn't last long. Nor did its replacement. I checked the current draw of the circuit, and it was exactly as expected, so, the current should have been easily handled by the switch...

There's no harm in doing this, but, it won't make any significant difference. Compare the angle by which #1 bolt turns to return to 40Nm with the total angle turned through during the later stages of bolt tightening. It's worth using tippex or similar to mark the bolt heads after the torque...

Concerning your permanent live wire - are you sure the relay is for the indicators - could it be for hazard warning lamps?

This page is handy; http://www.autoelectrics.net/12v_flasher_relay.html

As has already been mentioned, the 12v supply to the brake lamp switch comes from the fuse box - on mine, that fuse also powers the temperature and fuel gauges. As well as the fuse itself, and the sprung connections, it's also worth looking at the Lucar connectors on the back of the fuse box...

It looks like part 11 on this diagram - whether it's LH or RH, I don't know; https://www.landroverworkshop.com/diagrams/seats/seating/rear-inward-facing-individual_53666#11

Just remembered, some Triumphs used to have a tacho drive cable driven by an extra gear on the distributor drive shaft.

Rev counter? driven from the back end of the dynamo?

Roughly, I used about 1/16" of packing - I cut the edge off a plastic strip for bathroom tiling solely because I had some lying around when I did the job - I'm sure there are better solutions. I also used the flat aluminium strips one under the front, fixed screen, and one under the rear moving...

I did mine over the Summer. I used some cheese wire to remove the forward, fixed glass from the old frames. Before drilling holes or using any goo, I did a dry run with some plastic packing pieces to simulate the thickness of the glue line on the fixed screen. I found that I needed to make...

Yes, it's quite reasonable - thankfully, the cap, rotor, and leads aren't particularly expensive.