Right, thanks to you all I've got some things to try. The smaller 45A alternator is coming tomorrow, I'll see how that fits.. A longer drive belt is also a good suggestion, thanks for that blackburn. I naturally thought the through-bolt that used to go through the block was intended to be used...

What's involved in going back to a dynamo? :) I've still got the brackets. I'd have to undo the wiring changes..

Thanks. @mystery: Those brackets look much smaller than the one on my 2A you can see in my picture.. I wonder if mine's off something else now and if I could get a smaller one that would fit. @kermit: The Ford one on mine never quite aligned and the pulley was 1cm bigger at 7.5cm so spun...

@mystery did you make the tensior bracket you're using there? it looks much smaller than the one on my 2A and could solve my problem..

I've bought a S3 alternator to replace the "incorrect" Ford one on my 2A: https://bearmach.com/alternator-suitable-for-series-iii-suffix-b-engine-range-rover-classic-v8-carb-vehicles-br-3551 My engine is a suffix A 2.25 petrol, and this alternator is described as for suffix B engine onwards...

S3 alternator bracket is in the post.. ;) Made up some braces for the bulkhead outriggers and welded those on this morning. 14" x 3mm angle. Rivetted a cleat to the rear tub where one was missing. Finally fit the rear tub wiring covers I scavenged from Kelmarsh last year now the rear lights are...

Well the daffs have broken cover and so have I. Not much doing in Jan or Feb but I'm back on it now and looking forward to driving it on the road this year! Aiming for Billing, if they don't cancel it, as it's around the date of my 40th.. so why not? - Seat base seats floor gearbox tunnel new...

Good project there, will keep you nice and busy. You've got a good space to work in so that's a plus. ;)

I've got a lot of cream coloured old adhesive on the centre bulkhead of my S2A, in front of the gear stick. I expect it used to have carpet or other insulation stuck on it once upon a time. I've tried scraping it off as is to no good effect. Any tips for getting the stuff of? I'd rather not...

I've got new parabolics on the rear and refurb'd leaf springs with new u-bolts on the front. I take from some of the posts above that jacking the chassis up near each spring to take some load off while I tighten up would be a good idea to avoid stripping any threads. As for torquing them up...

My new springs have been on for months now (no road use yet but wheeling in and out the garage loaded up) so I torqued the shackle pins up today and went to do the u-bolts.. should I torque these up under load? when I laid down and went to make a start I was a bit concerned the weight of the...

Hope everyone had a good christmas! Progress has slowed.. but it must be Christmas because I have made _some_ progress! I refit the overdrive. The mainshaft nut was loose because of a broken lock washer(!) so I fit a new one of those and torqued it up. Some rocol and a new gasket and that's...

This thread makes me feel like anything's possible. And you can take that as a compliment. :D

I used a 9/16" x 12 UNC helicoil so I could use the "right" size drain plug, but I would have gone bigger if things hadn't worked out. When I offered up the 12mm tapping drill bit it didn't look like it would take much out, I think what I was left with was not the original stripped thread but...

Fixed my stripped overdrive drain plug thread with a helicoil kit today. No leaks so far with the box stood at rest with a bit of gear oil in. If it sits like that for a few days I'll be putting it back on soon and then the floor and seat box and seats can all go back in too as I've done all the...

At last. I've been busy but this was a joke, it took me weeks to get around to this. All done now and no leaks at rest so far.. Cheers all for your help and advice.

Cheers, I could be interested. The ideal is obviously one that holds water, but I'm open to getting a new core if that's viable.

As rob says. You could pop it off the transfer box easily enough and have a look in with a torch. Here's a video that shows what you're looking for on the clutch sleeve.. Note that bit will be in the transfer box behind the mainshaft nut, it won't come off with your overdrive.

Looking good! Be a while before I get to my bulkhead..

I'm looking for a Smiths heater for my '69 2A, either the round 'fug stirrer' or one of the later flat panel types. I've still got the holes in my bulkhead from when it had one. I can do the piping for water myself and get the venting elsewhere if need be, so I'm mainly looking for the heater...