If the brake light is also not working, has some part of the loom got crushed somewhere? Afraid I'm out of ideas .... normally solve these by spending huge hours with a multimeter .. finally working out what it was having come up with many dumb hypothesis along the way. My money would still be...

Does it light when you put the hazard's on?

Operational again!

I think the clue to this is that the remaining indicators are flashing too fast - a sure sign that something is wrong somewhere as this is determined by the circuit resistance (see https://www.2carpros.com/articles/turn-signals-blink-rapidly) May be related - on a friend Landy we had power to...

I'm was recounting 'how I should have done it with hindsight' - I got someone else to do it (£500) but was unconvinced on the internal treatment used possibly because of my naturally untrusting nature. I now have a compressor - sealey injection gun, and can now do the internal Waxoyl treatment...

Dinitrol is good and what you use depends upon the state of your chassis. If there is some age and rust to it on the inside hose it out out, get it dried, and use their cavity rust converter product (RC900) - don't try to pump in the RC800 - it is latex based for brushing only only - use that on...

I second (or third) the Halfords Pro Socket set (200) - they replace anything that breaks for free - had 2 replacement star drivers so far ... no quibble. also a lightweight sledge hammer (Wickes do a good one) grease gun - VIP get one with a coupler fitting - makes a crappy (but important)...

The only time I have had trouble with my TD5 engine tripping jumping and choking was because of the fuel filter being blocked - I learned this by elimination having changed the injector loom, air filter, and various sensors - sometimes it IS that simple

A really useful thread to find. I'm having the same problem having replaced the rear cross members. In my case I'm sure its the heavy galvanising that's choking the nuts. Needed to know what bolts should really fit. Thanks

Problem will be solved after I receive a delivery from Paddock Spares - a 'bolt up into position' tank guard in 6mm Aluminium - it will look nicer and ensure I never have to go through that again. Got some good feedback on the LR4x4 site - sounds like I'm not alone struggling with this one with...

Getting the fuel tank out of my TD5 was an absolute b***er. Getting it back in to place has been even worse. Everything is so very tight that it took over an hour with jack, slings and big hammers to persuade the cover plate back in to place ....... only to find I'd forgotten to fit the tow eye...

I think so - should run for 10-15 seconds and then stop once all pressured up (based in my TD5). If you have run out of fuel or changed the filter etc. it can run for a good long time repeatedly to prime. If it runs endlessly - start looking for where the fuel might be going.

Oh yes - the label on the tester has been stuck on upside down! - Peeled off with a scalpel - rotated 180 degrees - perfect working electric and tester. Now that I did not expect.

OK think I got it sorted. Purple seems to be a useful permanent live and the spare green is a reversing light switch line I think. Only confusing thing is that when I connect my eBay sourced tester the symbols don't match up to the function. Left indicator on the tester comes on when the brakes...

Hello, Whilst replacing the rear cross member I thought I'd relocate the tow-hitch electrics plug into the PTO hole to make a nice neat job. I've disconnect the grey square plug in the wheel arch but find there are a couple of spare wires at the back of the grey plug - One Purple with a strange...

Posted the same question yesterday but for some reason did not appear as a new thread - apologies if duplicated. I'm going to fit Anti roll / sway bars front and back to my Defender some time in the future. Whilst fitting a new short leg rear chassis cross member, because the tank guard and...

OK .. seemed to miss out going up on 'New Threads'

Is the site working? This didn't seem to appear anywhere and I'm craving help!

I'm going to fit Anti roll / sway bars front and back to my Defender some time in the future. Whilst fitting a new short leg rear chassis cross member, because the tank guard and tank were removed I thought I'd just check the ARB mounting 10mm head bolts would undo ..... they all sheared off...

They seem to manage. I did a short arm replacement rather than the full 1/4 (means you don’t have to touch the electrics). In my 90 TD5 a previous owner had cut a hole in the tub over the fuel sender - presumably to replace it without dropping the tank - this hole provided great access for me...