If I do end up changing it, where can I get the timing tools from?

Being done Sunday, just to Make sure.

I'll look at that tonight. I don't want to do it at all to be honest, trouble is I can't have it off the road to long.

Just spoke with a guy at pf jones. Apparently there are 4 possibilities of pump for my p38. If I buy a used one from eBay and use it temporarily until I get mine back will that work or will I have BeCM issues?

By the way, who is diesel jones? And what does he charge for refurbishing a pump?

Thanks to all for the input. Mine doesn't shut down completely, it just drops off. It will often happen cruising along where it will drop to idle, then if I lift off completely and then re accelerate it picks up.

Okay, so I've discussed this slightly on another thread so thought I should start a relevant one. My p38 2.5 diesel loses power in the first 10 miles or so after starting from cold. I've replaced the in tank pump, fuel filter and the top bit it screws into. I've also replaced the spill pipes...

I did wonder that. I've replaced the pipes. I'll leave it a while and see what happens. My warning light keeps flashing and I lose power. I've replaced the in tank pump a couple of weeks ago thinking it might be that as it was not working. It only seems to happen in the first 10 miles or so...

Yep same as. Just noticed it. New injector me thinks.

It's only around the front one, the one nearest front of the engine. The others are fine.

Thanks Wammers, I was working towards that but as it didn't smell of diesel I wasn't sure. The same stuff is around the top of the oil filter so I'm guessing that air is getting in there too.

Thanks Martyuk and Rick the pic. I'm not sure where to go with this at the moment, it's been running rough with what appears to be air getting in the fuel line although I can be sure yet. It also has what seems to be oil around one of the injectors with no apparent leak. I say oil but it looks...

Thank you all so much for your help. I think, as I only want another key as a spare I'll order a new one, it just means I'll have to resync it when I use it. I'm of the belief that the one that does not work properly has the right blade but is sending the wrong signal. Bit of a bugger really but...

Just carried out the seat test and the Fob that works seams to pair with memory one. Can I assume that the fob that works is in fact key one? The thing that casts doubt in my mind is when you have keys 3 and 4 how does that work with two memory positions?

By the way the RF antenna is connected. EKA works fine so I'd assume from that that the micro switches are okay. Also it has just come back from being refurbished by a guy recommended on here. He said he had tested it before sending back and said it was transmitting a signal with no problems.

Martyuk, sorry I may have confused the issue a bit. One key fob works perfectly, there is a bit of a loose connection inside which stops the light from flashing now and again but that is not the issue. It just needs a refurb and I can't send it off until I have another key that works.. The issue...

Will a Nanocom tell me if I have a 1,2,3 or 4 key. Because if I spen £170 on a number one keyfob I don't want to be still left with one key that works because it's cancelled the other one out.

Certainly starting to look like that.

Another thing I've noticed after sodding about with different procedures, when I put the key in the ignition the red light on the fob flashes. What if anything does that mean?

Sorry I've not replied, been away. So I have no idea which is key one or two as there is no stickers on the fobs. The key that doesn't work was in a poor state with flat batteries when I got it, it was sent away for new switches etc and came back with flashing lights. However it would not...