No problem mate , if you’re in no rush I’ll be doing mine in the next month or so, I’ve got a build thread in the members vehicles section I’ll post some pics up , need to update it haven’t done it for a year :rolleyes: .

YRM METALS sell those got to replace those on both my doors . Do a search on google they’ll pop up they sell a lot of stuff like that .

If you’re on about the ones that run across the middle the inside one can be brought from YRM if the one were the locking peg fixes to SP4x4 sell those . The ones that run across the middle of the door skin you have to make yourself.

Personally I’d go with galvanised steel skins , I’m about to do both my front doors on my project 90 and that’s what I’ve gone for and you can’t tell the difference when fitted .

Have a look on this website , if you go onto a product it shows the jigs they're using to weld them up . https://www.shielderchassis.com/product/defender-110-200-tdi/ I agree with Bobsticle, I think when the say " alter the chassis " I think it means drastically alter it , like make it wider...

They look like the clips that hold the glass in a greenhouse .

Was thinking along the same lines that originals were pressed, the part chassis that I have seen are 4 seam welded, but it would be a bugger to keep square . I’ve welded 10mm plate into boxes before when I did steel work and it bows.

Like you say all the parts that are welded on to the rails you can buy or are quite easy to measure and make , the problem is the rails . Were you thinking of making the chassis rails out of 4 pieces then welding them into the box shape ? I did see one of the car programs were they took a part...

Ye we use them at work , you need accurate drawings to write the programs . There’s got to be some out there somewhere you would have thought, as how do these firms make the chassis or the parts for the .

Is the first thing they advise to not use parts in a blue box :D .

Once you’d got the drawings , the 1st thing you’d need to do is make some sort of a jig because as well as getting it all square it also needs to be level and you wouldn’t want to be scrambling around on the floor trying to do it so you’d need a big table or frame , with adjusters on the bottom...

Might be the brushes in the motor , you can buy a new set RTC 198 and they're easy enough to replace .

Have read a few threads on the 200tdi engine mounts were people were getting engine vibration, which was put down to the newer engine mounts being made from harder rubber, as I was getting this from new mounts when I rebuilt the 110 . Some people had fitted mounts from Glencoyne engineering...

Might be wrong but isn't there a plastic piece that fits inside the ducting then sticks out into the foam seal . item 11 .

I believe that Allmakes who are the supplier use the pr2 after there premium parts range and NTN are the manufacturers of that part , if you look further down the list of parts in your link you’ll see the same for Timken bearing from Allmakes.

That's the first time I've used it and was well impressed , its not sticky but dry's really hard .

http://www.buzzweld.co.uk/chassis-black-gloss-extreme-400ml-aerosol-59-p.html here you go ,

How about buzzweld extreme chassis paint , just used it on the suspension bits and axles on my project .

Yes it comes down , comes in through the a pillar engine bay side rite in the corner by the top of the wing . Good luck spent ages trying to get it through the hole when I did my last project , try some stiff wire with a small bend in the end to catch hold of the wire then pull it through.

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