Pain?! :eek:

That would be the perfect solution. Although thinking about how cold water is this time of year, I'm not intending to go wading quite that deeply! I was thinking that top of the engine bay is sufficient protection, given 90% of Landys probably are probably only OK to the top of their axle. But...

It seems to be these products to a different job - do you want to ensure nothing can ooze past the thread, or do you want to make sure the bolt doesn't come loose? If you're trying to make it oil-tight, Hylomar should do the job, but you might also want to use a spring washer, as it won't...

I *think* the parts book shows the holes are just there, and you either fit mirrors or blank off the holes. It's never had mirrors on the wings as far as I know, and I'm a lot happier with the door mirrors, so I have no plans to fit any. Thanks for the warnings!

Yeah, but it makes sense with a snorkel. As you may have noticed, I've not actually plumbed that in properly yet (another of the shortcuts I took just to get it back on the road), so the snorkel plumbing finishes just inside the wing, and the airbox is just open at the top/back. I need to...

That's the NOX! :D;)

No, mine isn't. I bought a 'kit' for that, only to find that the push-fit couplers were too small to fit my diffs/gearbox. The holes are closer to M10 or 3/8" - the gearbox hole was definitely M10, but I bought a standard vent to temporarily fit on the rear that I'm pretty sure is imperial. I...

Hmmm, yes, I guess that would make a lot of sense. The pipe I currently have (with a hooked end) is too short to reach the engine bay, but that's fixable, I guess.

Yeah, I ended up cutting a few corners for last few bits and didn't get around to painting/repairing the wings or body (to match the shiny doors) as the weather got too cold and I really wanted to get it on the road in case I needed it in the snow. I've beaten any bad snow in my part of the...

Yeah, since you twisted my arm! :D

One job still to be done on my SWB S3 rebuild before I take it deep wading, is to replace the simple breather I've put on the rear axle, with a remote breather. The gearbox and front axle are relatively easy, just needing to take them high up in the engine bay. Has anyone else got a remote...

After far longer than it should have taken, my S3 rebuild passed its MoT test today, so I'm legally back on the road after about 10 years (8 SORNed and 2 being rebuilt). Admittedly it was my second attempt, as I failed last week due to a slight leak from a brake union - turns out I had a double...

I got one of these for bleeding the brakes: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282461470709 Really useful and a lot easier and more effective than the other solutions I've tried before (such as those that run from a compressor or spare tyre). I'd definitely recommend a proper vacuum pump for this.

To clarify, you're only connected to one of the two spade terminals on the solenoid body? I'm at a loss to explain how that works, then... But pleased to hear it does.

I also have the Haynes book (plus their restoration book), but to be honest, I've hardly used them when working on my S3. I found the green 'Repair Operations Manual' to be more concise and useful, although the Haynes manual is a useful backup for some jobs. The Parts Catalogue is also very...

If this is indeed what the other wire is for, then the spade terminal attached to the screw post needs to be connected to the starter motor side of the solenoid, not the wire that connects directly to the battery post. I note you said they were connected to 'battery side', above. If you connect...

Yeah, that all sounds likely. It doesn't matter which spade you use for the white/red wire and for the earth, so just use whichever terminal is most convenient/safest for each, ie. use the terminal closest to any chassis/body metalwork for the earth. Size of wire isn't critical, as it's only...

I don't think so. no. To check, the two spade terminals on the screw post are ones you've added from the old solenoid, right? I assume these are just being used as a convenient distribution point for permanent 12V supply to other accessories, right (probably brown wires)... The two spade...

I'm afraid I don't know. I've had it for around 20 years, and the chassis wasn't in very good condition when I got it, so I guess it was original. If it wasn't, it did't last very well. I don't recall being told any chassis elements had been replaced before I got it, but I might have just...

All noted. Thanks, guys.