TheMegaMan

TheMegaMan

Well-Known Member
Those of you that have rebuilt or swapped a Landy chassis...what did you do with the old one?

I've cut mine up into a few pieces, which I hope the DVLA agrees has put it out of use.

Do I just take it to the local recycling centre, or if there sufficient metal here that it's worth finding a scrap metal dealer and trying to sell it? Any idea how much it's likely to be worth?
 
You have kept the bit with the chassis number? If you have a scrappy near you probably worth taking it there to be weighed in along with any other bits you may have lying around like old discs, wheels, ect.
 
Or leave it on your drive overnight with a sign saying "For Sale £20" and the metal fairies will make it disappear in the dead of night...
 
TheMegaMan said:
Those of you that have rebuilt or swapped a Landy chassis...what did you do with the old one?

I've cut mine up into a few pieces, which I hope the DVLA agrees has put it out of use.

Do I just take it to the local recycling centre, or if there sufficient metal here that it's worth finding a scrap metal dealer and trying to sell it? Any idea how much it's likely to be worth?
Click to expand...
Light iron prices aren't great at the moment, guessing at a tenner if you take it in.
Collected, not a lot.
Porters of Wisbech are pretty good guys if you can't find anywhere closer. I take old batteries off the boat in there.
 
Last edited:
Ok, thanks for the replies, chaps.

I was intending to put it on/on the Landy to deliver. For a tenner....probably still worth taking it in, I suppose. I really had no idea what it was likely to be worth.

Got a few other bits (brake drums (discs?!), odd brackets) and lots of old nuts/bolts. Do they bother with things like that?

Don't see many pikeys driving around here, but I think I know where there's a scrap dealer on the edge of town.

Unfortunately I've never been able to find a number on the chassis, but I have photos of both sides of both dumb irons, as 'evidence'. I guess I could just cut a bit out and stamp the number on it, but seems a little pointless.
 
This is the outside of the right front corner. Am I correct in understanding this is where the chassis number is supposed to be?
20210122_131551.jpg
 
Must remember to remove the old steering relay (probably need to cut it out), before taking the rest of it in, just in case I feel brave enough to have a got at trying to refurb it at some point in the future.
 
TheMegaMan said:
This is the outside of the right front corner. Am I correct in understanding this is where the chassis number is supposed to be?
View attachment 228919
Click to expand...
Yes it is but is that dumb iron the original one, has it been replaced or repaired or could your chassis be a replacement black dipped chassis say from 20-25yrs ago or earlier and is having its second replacement chassis, my dumb irons on my old chassis had been replaced in the past but rotten so only have the vin plate plus logbook so you should be ok, i sold my old 90 with a brand new chassis i had just fitted with just the vin plate and logbook a couple of years ago with no prob's.
 
wireman said:
Or leave it on your drive overnight with a sign saying "For Sale £20" and the metal fairies will make it disappear in the dead of night...
Click to expand...
Some years back I scrapped a Merc Estate - I'd taken the wheels and front hubs off and it was sitting flat on the ground on our gravel drive. Realised I didn't have a plan. We live in a quite cul-de-cac but I thought what the hell, so I wrote "free to take" on it and went to work. It was gone when I got home. Still don't know how they lifted it but I went straight out and got a lock for the side gate!
If you are weighing in scrap you'll need to set up an account, no big deal but cash sales are now illegal for scrap - too many pikies were selling rail tracks and man hole covers.
 
cornish rattler said:
Yes it is but is that dumb iron the original one, has it been replaced or repaired or could your chassis be a replacement black dipped chassis say from 20-25yrs ago or earlier and is having its second replacement chassis, my dumb irons on my old chassis had been replaced in the past but rotten so only have the vin plate plus logbook so you should be ok, i sold my old 90 with a brand new chassis i had just fitted with just the vin plate and logbook a couple of years ago with no prob's.
Click to expand...
I'm afraid I don't know. I've had it for around 20 years, and the chassis wasn't in very good condition when I got it, so I guess it was original. If it wasn't, it did't last very well. I don't recall being told any chassis elements had been replaced before I got it, but I might have just forgotten. It doesn't look like it's been re-welded anywhere. But it was a CDK rather than a normal factory build, so maybe that explains the quirk.
 
Jacksprat said:
Hi all, I recently added a new carb. To set up I reduced the idle until it sounded about right and then screwed in the mixture screw until the idle speed dropped and started to run rough then backed it a 1/4 turn until it settled again. All good, drives fine, battery light goes off and battery charging. I recently bought a cheap rpm tester (for another engine) and thought I would see what RPM it was idling at. The result was 400 rpm. Now Haynes says it should be 750 to 800 rpm and Glencoyne website suggests 600 rpm.

My question - is there any reason to increase the RPM? Or do I leave alone?

Thanks
Click to expand...

TheMegaMan said:
I'm afraid I don't know. I've had it for around 20 years, and the chassis wasn't in very good condition when I got it, so I guess it was original. If it wasn't, it did't last very well. I don't recall being told any chassis elements had been replaced before I got it, but I might have just forgotten. It doesn't look like it's been re-welded anywhere. But it was a CDK rather than a normal factory build, so maybe that explains the quirk.
Click to expand...
Are right ok :)
 
Don't over think this, the main thing is that its destroyed, there is only one chassis for your vehicle and that's on it. I spoke with the DVLA on a related matter and they explained that vehicle numbers go with the body for unibody cars, the chassis for chassis cars "with the exception of Land Rovers because chassis were sold as a replacement part from the manufacturer from new." It is therefore legit to transfer the chassis number to the replacement chassis - on a Land Rover. The really important thing is that there is one chassis number for your vehicle and its the one on your vehicle and there is no other chassis with that number on. That's why you want to see the old chassis go in the scrap bin.
 
When I replaced the chassis that came with my series I was never able to find a chassis number as I suspect that the dumb iron had been replaced.

I burned the area where the chassis number should have been away into a pool of molten steel with a cutting torch just to be sure it was gone.
 
TheMegaMan said:
This is the outside of the right front corner. Am I correct in understanding this is where the chassis number is supposed to be?
View attachment 228919
Click to expand...
My chassis number is on the outside of the left front dumb iron, i.e. passenger side. Don't know if it's original and I had to scrape off some chassis black to find it but it tallies with the VIN plate (which I found later, that's not where it is supposed to be either) and also with the V5 so all good.

I think if you can find it it's best to cut it out and keep it to prove it cannot exist on another chassis.

For the rest of the metal, if it's not worth much is it worth cutting out and keeping any nice sound bits for future plating ;) (Hint: I'm a hoarder, so I'm told)
 
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