Looking at those readings, you have a coolant reading of -35 degrees for some reason. I doubt the electronics will allow the engine to rev until it warms up as it thinks it is in the artic, under ice, so trying to prevent engine damage. Maybe a bad sensor, maybe a bad connection, open circuit in...

+1 on Mark's comment. Also it might be something as simple as the temp sensor gone/going bad. Simple question, is the fluid up to level? If not, it will overheat quickly and cause all sorts of other issues.

Some of you may remember this, or am I getting old? In the 70s RRs had an oil temp gauge fitted in the centre of the dash, at least in our market. The gauge was marked 90 degrees in the centre and went up to 130 degrees on the right. In normal driving the gauge sat somewhere around the centre...

The numbers are in HP to DIN standard and taken from the workshop manual. DIN HP is a closer reflection of true output as opposed to SAE HP which may be higher. DIN requires that the engine is tested with all ancillaries connected, water pump, fan, alternator, exhaust manifolds, oil pump etc...

The D doesn't refer to anything, it is part of the engine number prefix. GEMS 42D = 4.0 High Compression (9.35:1) 44D = 4.0 LC (8.2:1) 46D = 4.6 HC (9.35:1) 48D = 4.6 LC (8.36:1) THOR 57D = 4.0 LC (8.23:1) 58D = 4.0 HC (9.38:1) 59D = 4.6 LC (8.37:1) 60D = 4.6 HC (9.37:1) 92D = 4.0 Canada 93D =...

I’m guessing that is the BeCM current draw whilst asleep. At that current draw it should take about 500 hours to flatten the battery.

Before I spent more money, I'd get the alignment sorted. Most I have done in the past I have set to zero, so parallel. The book value is 1.2mm to 2.4mm toe out. If this isn't right then it will track all over the place. Another point worth mentioning is that poor tracking and returning to...

Around 20" at idle is good. The key is though, it should be rock solid, not flicking about. If it is flicking about then you (generally) have exhaust valve issues or an inlet manifold leak at one cylinder. The gauge should drop to almost zero if you snap open the throttle, then shoot up to high...

Bertie, further to Mark’s comment. If you go to the ECU Fueling page you will see live data for the O2 sensors. It should show them flick about between 0V and 5V, a voltage which goes back to the ECU to tell it if the engine is rich or lean, so on the next injection cycle it makes a tiny...

Bertie, be sure to re-set the adaptive values if you replace the MAF, same with the O2 sensors.

Definitely sounds like it is running lean. Ignoring the codes for a minute, how are the fuel filter and the fuel pump in tank screen? What pressure do you have at the fuel rail? It should be about 40 PSI. A failing or partially blocked pump will give similar symptoms, which may lead to the...

Possibly 3/4” then? Are you using a flare nut spanner? If not probably worth getting a set as otherwise you risk destroying the fittings.

I think a job for mine. Although no error lights, I do have the pump running every second press and at time just sitting idling it will kick in for a second or two.

From memory it is a setting in the BeCM. You can set various warning for a mis-lock. I have mine set to flashing interior lights as I hate a car that chirps.

They should all be +/- 10%, which these are so all within spec I’d say.

If it has electronic ignition, factory fitted, then almost certainly the issue is the ignition amplifier module, fixed to either the distributor on some models and mounted near the coil on others. When they go bad they do exactly as you describe.

Basics first. Does you engine have an ignition amplifier on the distributor? (A 79 model shouldn’t have, but you never know what has been done in the past). If so, then hot start problems are a sign that the amplifier is failing and needs to be replaced. Put that to one side, if the engine...

Pul the fuel pump relay and the ignition relay.

Engine numer is around the dip stick if you haven’t found it yet. Laser engraved as opposed to stamped on some vehicles.

xyz switch.