As you are going to convert their 4.0 into a 4.6, it is still going to drop back in without any gearbox mods. The 4.0 used a 4HP22 and the 4.6 a 4HP24. The only difference is the 24 is designed to take a higher torque load than the 22. However, you would have to be doing a lot of towing or heavy...

The is, the identical part.

..... and if it is the motor, strip it and give it a good clean. You might want to grab one of these as well and fit for good measure seeings as they are cheap. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/153186756109

Hose dripping at the pump? Get a small zip (cable) tie and put it around the end and cinch it up tight. That will stop your drip. Rear window washer is DMC10023. Something else to check is that the one way valve isn't clogged. For the rear window it is under the LHS rear load space cover...

Can someone explain to me the difference between engine revs and crank revs? I thought engine revs was the number of times the engine crankshaft went around in a minute. So what is/are "crank revs"?

I thought a set would look good on my truck, but the more I look at it, the more I think that the yellow ones look better.

A slipped liner will usually give you a constant tap tap tap at engine speed. Liners usually slip when the block cracks through a water passage behind a liner, allowing coolant to come in contact with the liner, lubricating it and allowing it to slip. Following that, you end up with coolant...

I must admit, I'm confused. Target Revs? What are you referring to? You say the car runs OK, and the tacho reports the right revs. What are you looking to do? @oakey what do you mean by crank revs for one crank and not crankshaft revs?

Thor uses a single sensor for ECU input and the dash gauge. MEK100160.

Yep, that goes to the vent in the under dash panel above your shins. The flexible end hooks up to the duct work for the vent at the end of the dash.

Make sure you use Dextron III oil or compatible. Later spec oil isn’t necessarily better.

Don't add more oil to the box, 6.5l is about right. The rest is in the torque convertor, oil cooler and pipes. Get a couple of transmission pipe O rings before you start. Use a flare nut spanner if you have one the right size. Take off the pipe running from the transmission to the cooler, put...

Depending on the state of your car, and how much jewellery you have hanging on the front, I found taking off the bumper made the job very easy to do.

Do yourself a favour and get a Nanocom, it will read all of the P38 systems, whereas generic code readers won’t.

This little beastie here, marked 2 and 3.

I think I'd look at the IACV to start with then, pull it off and clean it, see if that helps.

So engine cuts out when hot, needs to cool down to re-start? Usually a sign of a failing CPS. Have you checked the fuel pressure? 38 psi static, and bumping up to over 40 when you give the engine a rev? If you don’t see these sort of numbers, might be a fuel pump on the way out, or the FPR...

You expect a spark when you connect up the battery again. It is normal. If you don’t get one, then start to worry. There should be no current going to the starter unless you are starting the car. None at all, so there is an issue here. The BeCM goes to sleep in exactly 2 minutes after locking...

Most fuel issues are spark related in the end. I’d look to replacing the ignition amplifier module and the coil for known good ones and see if that helps.

@oakey What do you mean by sensitive and undrivable? I only ask as I have no experience with these bushes at all.