Thanks @NPG will have a read today and will see if I can record the abs on nanocom. 2nd hand slabs ecu’ a are about £15 on eBay and while mine now is the SRD500070 version and these are 000070 or 0000150 (is one better than the other?) is it worth getting hold of one just to rule out the ecu...

another good suggestion, thank you. I read that the other week but had forgotten about it. Will try that tomorrow as well- will take my mind off the impending Tier 4 lockdown!

I didn’t no, a good suggestion. Will try that in the morning along with fitting the new hub and sensor when that arrives

I’ll try to get it booked in to a garage that is good with landrovers after Xmas and get them to verify and will keep checking and testing in the meantime!

I’m certainly not but have a mate who is pretty good with electrics so will ask him - certainly worth a shot I have 3 months till the mot so have a little time before panicking completely!

Will do. Thank you again for all the help

Ok, thanks again for your help. I’ll check resistance again tomorrow (is there a figure I “should” be getting or just the same as pin 10?) The SLABS ECU was replaced about 9 months ago (long story but a friend had a good working SRD500070 ecu that he gave me - attached) and it’s been faultless...

It clears then is logged again. Clearing it does appear to work on the nanocom screen as it then shows no faults until I restart

@sierrafery yes, as soon as I turn the ignition on. I get the ABS and handbrake light illuminated for a second then the other 2 come on - that’s on 2nd stage ignition and no change on engine start or after driving around a bit

Haven’t tested continuity fully yet (too wet!) but nanocom test on RL outlet sounds the same as RR and also tested abs on both rears and “sound” ok. Will keep checking!

Thanks @sierrafery - will try the nanocom test and also track back from ecu. I’m not great with multimeter but did check pin 5 vs pin 10 and they gave the same reading - I’m fearing a new modulator so scouring eBay!

Update - no further! Replaced the SVS (not modded) as I had one in the garage - no difference. Checked resistance between pin 10 (RROV) and pin 5 (RLOV which is throwing the codes) and they are both the same. Check ground connection too and that’s ok. #stumped! back to “rear left output valve...

I’ll take the wheel off today and clean everything as it’s worth a go but not sure I’ll have much joy as the lights don’t go off after restart, they’re on permanently now despite clearing the codes with Nanocom which doesn’t look good! I’ve got a multimeter and lots of electrical diagrams, just...

thank you @NPG I’ll take a look and try to get my head around the electrical bits!!

Why yes! Didn’t spot that. I’m south Hampshire, near Winchester

Ah ok, that makes me feel slightly better! Oh no, bad news on the mot, fingers crossed it gets through ok after the welding!!

Thanks @Badger688 - I think changing the rear hubs is worth a shot. It did the job (although different code) on the fronts. Just odd that the handbrake light is also on with this issue - makes it seem more urgent when driving when the red light is on!!

evening all, after running fine for months and shelling out a fortune (relatively!) on new steering knuckle joints for both sides my wonderful D2 has thrown up the 3 Amigo's along with the red handbrake/brake light. I've cleared the intermittent "rear left output valve" fault with the nanocom...

I’m probably a bit too far away but if there is no one nearer and you get stuck then I’m happy to help if I can. Have a td5 nanocom In Fair Oak, near Eastleigh