Sounds clutch / DMF or gearbox related if you are having issues getting it in gear when running. Check oil, coolant, power steering levels (I assume you didn't have an oil pressure light on or overheat?) just to be on the safe side. Make sure it is cooled down and try and make it home slowly...

Yes and I Eurotorched it at the same time (and fitted a decent earth connection), cant remember where I got the valve from. The most fiddly bit of the conversion was getting the euro connector to line up with the wire feed due to the angle of the front panel. Ended up making different length...

Some water pumps suffer from an issue where the impeller starts slipping on the shaft, if the pulley/bearing feels ok that doesn't nesessarily mean it is ok. If you had issues with the temp at the same time then whip it off for a look (might be worth getting a spare gasket and set of bolts...

And mine!

The other alternative is to get one of the small plug in solar panels and connect it to your battery. Leave the panel on the dash and try to face the vehicle to the south when you park up. If you use the fag lighter version make sure the fag lighter is powered when the ignition is off...

If you don't know when (or even if) the timing belt has been replaced then it is definitely worth getting it replaced. Worst case it has never been replaced and is 30K over its max mileage (not to mention many years over its 5 year life)! Mid case is that someone has previously replaced the...

It does sound a bit like dry/failing bearings, if removing the aux belt doesn't cure it then it could potentially be the timing belt idler/tensioner. Do you know when it was last replaced and if so whether the bearings were done (they should be)?

Looking at the wiring diagram if you disconnect the wiring to the motor (to prevent any odd effects) then putting +12v on the red/lt green and ground on the black (at the back) the motor should run. This will prove the motor itself is ok for a start.

Ok, didn't know that, thanks

I thought on the 300 if you loosened the three bolts (not the centre one) then you could adjust the cam timing relative to the pulley (similar to the FIP)?

Good spot, I was thinking of the 300 as you can accidently adjust the cam timing if you loosen the three bolts on the pulley, the 200 doesn't have that facility.

Not sure what you mean by 'cam lift off'' but I assume you are talking about the rocker arms so you don't have any valve spring pressure? As long as you haven't removed the pulley from the camshaft it should be ok just making sure that all the marks are in their correct positions

If you do end up going that way then it may be worth making two, try fitting one in a lump of scrap aluminium, use your old idler and assemble it as would be on the engine. Try torque loading it to the. correct value to prove it works and then start over-torquing it to see at what torque it...

This sort of thing as an example (yes I know its the wrong size:rolleyes:), obviously you would need descent spec material or possibly have one custom made?

If you can't get the helical to work then you may be able to get a stepped stud where there is a 12mm thread at one end that then necks does to 10mm for the idler. Obviously that would mean drilling and tapping the case out to M12 so you would need to check there is sufficient material to let...

If you added a column with bolt diameter then you could use the 'filter' function in Excel and that would pull up all the bolts of that diameter on the spreadsheet, you can use multiple filters so if you had all the lengths in another column then you can filter by diameter and length. Doing...

Get someone to hold the brake pedal down, should be less chance of it turning

10K is a bit early for bushes on the road but you also say you do a lot of off-road so all depends upon how rough you go and what sort of articulation you have and the quality of the ones you fitted last time. Best bet is to just have a good look around first as it could be something else...

I would suggest that even ones that look straight are rolled on a flat surface to check they are truly straight

Belt may be due at 70 (or 75K miles), but it is also lifed at 5 years irrespective of mileage. Just done mine a couple of months ago, only had about 35K on it but didn't want to risk it even though it looked fine. Doesn't help if belt gets contaminated with oil either. Anyway good luck and...