Definitely looks like it being filled, with the lip like you say is more prominent on mine. Look like it was filled with decorators caulk or some other crap stuff looking at the way it's cracked.

Thumbnails make it easier, hope it helps

I had a similar dream to restore my chassis, but that idea swiftly disintegrated, like my chassis. Once i got a few plates welded in, and many hours of work, I realised I'd still be welding the fekin thing today, and that was 2 years ago! Alas, a galv chassis it was.

Get a torch with Mapp gas in that case, you'll be surprised how much hotter and quicker things are with it.

blow torch ?

Zinc isn't a paint, it still works, even if you g clamped a bit of it to wherever you didn't want to rust.

I hope you can salvage some of the internals and save a load of dosh. Or buy new from Ashcrofts, easy option !

a few teeth missing there.... definitely need to remove the box before it minces everything else.

The diagram shows the positive being bolted to the chassis, that would give you a dead short and the problems that you have. That's why I asked if it was positive ground, because only then it would make sense. As it stands it seems someone has thought that you have a positive ground giving you...

does a series 3 have a positive ground ?

I have the same problem, and my engine was rebuilt fully less than 2k miles ago. Only happens when i rag it so I assume its the oil getting really hot. Still, it shouldn't happen.

I would say you got a short in the wires somewhere.

there is a system like that, but its a bit overkill IMO. If you know the above in the video you know it, if you don't you don't. Now that you do, you can deal with a runaway diesel easily.

custom exhaust centre will knock one up for you. not that expensive for a straight thru

for the record I used GPS and rounded it down

awesome. using the aluminium will bring the weight down a bit. Looking forward to seeing this come along

my 200tdi gets me 35mpg when it's empty. I did record 38mpg once. Towing however, brings it down to low 20's, but saying that it was 3t horse trailer with 2 strapping horses, up long steep hills in the depth of Wales that hammer the engine.

Oh is your car a type where main beam only works when the car is running ?? just a thought.

the coil feed (main beam) is live only when main beam is on. If main beam is on and spots don't work, then that feed isn't the main beam. Simples. Assuming your main beam is actually working. Best check for this is a 12v tester, a screwdriver with a 12v bulb on it with a crocodile clip tail...