Hi, I'm after a rear tailgate handle, in black, if you have a good one left? Chris Sorry, ignore this, didn't check another message and I have been promised one! Chris

Is the rear tailgate handle still available? Is it black or grey? And total cost to post to Manchester way? Thanks, Chris

I will second fitting the seal to the tank, then fit the sender unit. Tried really hard, with lots of swearing, just couldn't get the thread started. Fitted seal to tank first - dead easy. Hammer and screwdriver worked for me! Chris

Mine does similar - but only when cold...... Have given up trying to find out why! Chris

Recently removed my in-tank unit and was struggling to refit locking ring. Cured by removing seal from unit and fitting it carefully into top of tank, half of the seal is now inside the tank.... Carefully slide pump/sender unit into tank, being careful not to dislodge the seal, and the locking...

My TD4 has a front suspension "knock" when cold, especially on cold and frosty mornings. The knock disappears later in the day when it has warmed up! I thought it just didn't like the cold like me..... So will be really interested to find out the proper reason and fix! Chris

If you drive without the crank pulley and associated drive belts you will have no power steering and no water pump, so the engine will overheat quite quickly and you will need arm muscles like Popeye! Chris

This happened to me on a 2002 TD4. Part no is XKB100150, XKB100150L which is listed as a brake light switch. Got one from fleabay, about £12. However, this did not really cure the clutch pedal returning too high. Ended up making a little U shaped plastic part to put over a metal edge down by...

That little clip failed on me. Allowed rear shoe to come off the piston and the fluid leaked out of the piston when brake pressure applied....... The clip was sitting at the bottom of the drum, the pin it is supposed to retain was long gone! Fortunately for me happened at about 5mph leaving the...

I believe it is possible to remove the coupling and "hard wire" the master to the slave using hydraulic fittings. Read about it on here somewhere, not done it myself! Obviously means a bigger bleeding job, but if far easier that removing the IRD/gearbox to change the slave! Bleeding the clutch...

Mine was like that, perseverance, wiggling, WD40, sneaking up on it from another direction, using spanner to press down on the clip whilst doing all of the above and one of them worked as it eventually came apart! Sorry can't be more helpful! Chris.

Thanks for the advise, that make had "caught my eye" so to speak! Chris

Front CV joint has started to click on tight lock so looking at replacement complete drive shafts. Prices seem to range from sub £40 to £400! Any recommendations on makes to buy or avoid? Thanks, Chris

Sure I have a older/smaller version around somewhere. 2002 TD4 version.

I get this. First time took the instument binnacle apart to replace the bulbs but found the bulbs were intact. Now found a sharp tap with the flat of my hand on top of the binnacle successfully re-lights all of the bulbs......

Similar thing happened to me. The shoe retaining pin fell out leaving the clip inside the drum. The shoe came off the piston causing the brakes to fail, no pressure due to fluid leaking from the over extended piston. Luckily at about 10 mph round the corner from work! Repeated applications of...

Thats the way I did the job too, engine up, engine down, and extact the pump via the track rod "window". Don't forget the little "o" ring that seals the pipe into the top of the thermostat housing, and the bolts that hold the pump on are those silly internal star headed ones, I replaced mine...

Had a slimilar problem with clutch and clutch pedal. Low biting point and pedal sitting high. There was evidence of leak on the inside of the bulkhead, master cylinder leaking along the operating rod. Changed the master cylinder and bled the system, biting point is still very low! The pedal...

I had similar symptoms. By looking at the clutch pedal operating rod that connects to the pedal I could see traces of leaking fluid on the shaft and running down the bulkhead inside the car. Replaced the master cylinder, bit fiddly, especially connecting the rod to the pedal, and the "quick"...

Following your guidance, I've had a bloody good look and poke about where you said and I can see a few cracks, just! Looks like I need to find a better Land Rover Specialist, but to be fair, he is a real Land Rover specialist! But there were lots of frequent little creaking noises and occasional...