Thanks for the reply
Gave up last night and left it with the collar thing pushed in .... Went out in car this morning and all ok
Got in the car at lunchtime.... Put clutch in and pedal went straight to floor.
Looked under bonnet and ... Yippee the coupling had separated.
Now my problem is that I can't get the new one connected ...... All I can think of is that it's the pressure in the line from the slave ..... Just can't get it together
Any more ideas..??
Chris
Gave up last night and left it with the collar thing pushed in .... Went out in car this morning and all ok
Got in the car at lunchtime.... Put clutch in and pedal went straight to floor.
Looked under bonnet and ... Yippee the coupling had separated.
Now my problem is that I can't get the new one connected ...... All I can think of is that it's the pressure in the line from the slave ..... Just can't get it together
Any more ideas..??
Chris
Still can't get this master cylinder to connect ....... Giving up for the day .... No skin on my knuckles and knackered....
Hope it's nit the connector that's goosed........ Not going to pay for new slave for the sake of a connector !!!!!
Anyone want to buy a freelander with a non working clutch !!!!
Chris
Hope it's nit the connector that's goosed........ Not going to pay for new slave for the sake of a connector !!!!!
Anyone want to buy a freelander with a non working clutch !!!!
Chris
I believe it is possible to remove the coupling and "hard wire" the master to the slave using hydraulic fittings. Read about it on here somewhere, not done it myself!
Obviously means a bigger bleeding job, but if far easier that removing the IRD/gearbox to change the slave!
Bleeding the clutch is a bit of a pig, done it 3 times now and still not right, but it works. The clutch seems to require "pumping" first thing in the morning to get it throught the day!
Good luck.
Chris
Obviously means a bigger bleeding job, but if far easier that removing the IRD/gearbox to change the slave!
Bleeding the clutch is a bit of a pig, done it 3 times now and still not right, but it works. The clutch seems to require "pumping" first thing in the morning to get it throught the day!
Good luck.
Chris
Cheers Chris
Well found one thing that wasn't helping..... The metal ring thing that's inside the slave connector had a bent prong.... Took this out and straightened the prong...... Still can't get it to connect though........ Hope I've put the thing back in the right way ...... Anyone know which way this goes..... Is it prongs in first ?????
The battle goes on ..... Getting fed up of it now .... Simple job that has now taken 3 days and still no car !!!
Chris
Well found one thing that wasn't helping..... The metal ring thing that's inside the slave connector had a bent prong.... Took this out and straightened the prong...... Still can't get it to connect though........ Hope I've put the thing back in the right way ...... Anyone know which way this goes..... Is it prongs in first ?????
The battle goes on ..... Getting fed up of it now .... Simple job that has now taken 3 days and still no car !!!
Chris
guineafowl21
Well-Known Member
Ironic that the connector is meant to be 'quick-release'.
Why not cut the connectors off and join with ordinary unions? You'll need a mini pipe cutter and steel pipe flaring kit. Take in the old master pipe to get the size right, and also use it to practise on.
If you can't bleed it normally, how about putting some PTFE thread tape on the bleed nipple threads, and using a new oil can filled with brake fluid to reverse bleed?
I've not done this, but have heard of it being done and this is the way I'd be thinking if I had your problems!
Why not cut the connectors off and join with ordinary unions? You'll need a mini pipe cutter and steel pipe flaring kit. Take in the old master pipe to get the size right, and also use it to practise on.
If you can't bleed it normally, how about putting some PTFE thread tape on the bleed nipple threads, and using a new oil can filled with brake fluid to reverse bleed?
I've not done this, but have heard of it being done and this is the way I'd be thinking if I had your problems!
dave21478
Active Member
If you are bleeding it anyway, use a screwdriver or something to press in the black plastic collar around the central silver pin on the slave cylinder side of the coupling to release any pressure. It will be stiff if there is a lot of pressure in it and will spurt fluid out when you release it.
As for the collar and which way it goes, the pins should face down into the connector as its them that stop it coming apart until the plastic collar is pushed in, squeezing them flat.
They actually clip together pretty easily so I dont see how you could be having trouble unless one of the valves is jammed (the plastic ring I mentioned above or the central part of the male side from the master cylinder.
It is possible to get rid of the coupling, but not simple. The fittings are the same as brake pipe fittings, but there is no way to fit a coupling to the plastic pipe from the master cylinder so you need to bin that and fit a bit of copper pipe, which involves brazing the copper to the nipple that clips into the bottom of the master cylinder - dont mess if you cant do that sort of thing. I did it and results were less than optimal I think due to the copper being too rigid and not compensatin for movement between the engine and the bulkhead like the plastic does. Ideally you would use a flexi hose.
Mine is fecked and will have to stay that way as there is no way I can be arsed stripping it again to change out the pish slave cylinder I fitted when I changed the clutch. I need to bleed it every two weeks, which I can do in about 45 seconds now. I wrapped the bleed nipple threads in PTFE to stop air being drawn through them and fitted a meter or so of plastic tube to the nipple which I leave on and the end is coiled up behind the battery with a basic one-way valve on it. I just reach under the pipework to get a wee spanner on the nipple, slacken it a 1/2 turn, drop the end of the tube into a bottle of old fluid and pump the pedal a few times, wedge it down, tighten the nipple, stow the pipe again and top up the fluid in the master cylinder.
As for the collar and which way it goes, the pins should face down into the connector as its them that stop it coming apart until the plastic collar is pushed in, squeezing them flat.
They actually clip together pretty easily so I dont see how you could be having trouble unless one of the valves is jammed (the plastic ring I mentioned above or the central part of the male side from the master cylinder.
It is possible to get rid of the coupling, but not simple. The fittings are the same as brake pipe fittings, but there is no way to fit a coupling to the plastic pipe from the master cylinder so you need to bin that and fit a bit of copper pipe, which involves brazing the copper to the nipple that clips into the bottom of the master cylinder - dont mess if you cant do that sort of thing. I did it and results were less than optimal I think due to the copper being too rigid and not compensatin for movement between the engine and the bulkhead like the plastic does. Ideally you would use a flexi hose.
Mine is fecked and will have to stay that way as there is no way I can be arsed stripping it again to change out the pish slave cylinder I fitted when I changed the clutch. I need to bleed it every two weeks, which I can do in about 45 seconds now. I wrapped the bleed nipple threads in PTFE to stop air being drawn through them and fitted a meter or so of plastic tube to the nipple which I leave on and the end is coiled up behind the battery with a basic one-way valve on it. I just reach under the pipework to get a wee spanner on the nipple, slacken it a 1/2 turn, drop the end of the tube into a bottle of old fluid and pump the pedal a few times, wedge it down, tighten the nipple, stow the pipe again and top up the fluid in the master cylinder.
Attachments
Thanks Dave ...... That's how I've got the collar thing
The central part of the connector from the master moves easily...... The outer part of the connector from the slave..... Can't get that to move at all ....... So it's either jammed or it's the pressure holding it ...... Buggered if I know what to try next
Chris
The central part of the connector from the master moves easily...... The outer part of the connector from the slave..... Can't get that to move at all ....... So it's either jammed or it's the pressure holding it ...... Buggered if I know what to try next
Chris
dave21478
Active Member
Opening the bleed screw should release any pressure in it.
iirc mine jammed up while I was buggering around trying stuff. In the end I got a wee 12mm socket (cant remember what size actually) which would press on the black ring and used a big pair of mole-grips to press it in.
iirc mine jammed up while I was buggering around trying stuff. In the end I got a wee 12mm socket (cant remember what size actually) which would press on the black ring and used a big pair of mole-grips to press it in.
Sorted
Thanks to those who replied
Slackened the bleed nipple...... A small amount of fluid came out..... Tried the connection again and it slid straight in ,.... So it was the pressure
Tightened up the bleed nipple and the feel of the clutch and the gear change is better than it's ever been !!!
Haven't bled it yet .... Will see how it goes
Chris
Thanks to those who replied
Slackened the bleed nipple...... A small amount of fluid came out..... Tried the connection again and it slid straight in ,.... So it was the pressure
Tightened up the bleed nipple and the feel of the clutch and the gear change is better than it's ever been !!!
Haven't bled it yet .... Will see how it goes
Chris