Don't need to 'sand' the original plastic essentially. It just needs keying with a scotchbrite, thoroughly cleaned, apply a light but even coverage of the 'plastic primer' if it is the clear product then it'll be an adhesion promoter and not a primer, you will then have to let this dry and apply...

Everything that breaks when removing it :rolleyes: I replaced seals and bolts for all hinges and the likes. Removed the cappings to get all paint behind them and then refit with new rivets. During the strip down I just kept coming across rusty fixings that would best if they were replaced.

Hi, just putting the feelers out there. I have 5 Goodyear mud terrain tyres in excellent condition on my 90. I won't be doing much off-roading, more greenlaning and the commute to work so I would prefer some all terrain tyres. My tyres are 30/12.5/15 (I think, trying to remember off the top of...

300 miles away from me :confused: I'm not sure on bodyshop prices down there but I'd do a bumper corner for £75-£100 depending on how bad it is.

Looks a good base for a cracking project! What's the plans for it? Back as standard or off road toy or daily driver? Is that a recon'd heaterbox? Never seen a blue one :p

If your spraying with a rattle can it'll never look a 'good job'. If your going to try and sand the scratches out yourself you'll need a DA, if your going to do it by hand, you won't be able to sand out any deep scratches. You're best off keying the area and putting in a bit of filler. Don't...

Made some progress over this week or so. Primed and Painted the wheel arches, bonnet and front vent flaps. Test fitted my new headlight which I've now sent back as I only ordered one by accident and they didn't have a second one in stock to send me And tonight I've fit my newly...

I keep telling myself that I'll do another one but I don't know if I can be bothered putting all the hours in again straight away, it takes over your life haha. I think I'll run my 90 for a short while and then decide. But on the other hand I wouldn't want to part with it after all of the work...

That's the problem. With the sender out of the tank.. Empty fuel tank means gauge at 3/4 full with fuel light on Increasing the position of the sender the gauge moves up and beyond full and the light turns off when it should. Back to empty, the gauge moves back to 3/4 and not below. I'll...

It's all the fun of owning a landy right :rolleyes:

Would be reliable at least!:) I think most of them on the road nowadays have had the looms chopped and modified unfortunately. I found one of the plugs for running a fridge or something along them lines, aftermarket alarms and door sensors (none of which worked). I wouldn't care if people did a...

It may be a thing to do in the future. Getting it back together and working is the plan at the moment. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel and little things keep holding the job up unfortunately. The low fuel light works, so if needs be that can be my indicator to fill up for the time...

I've had an earth straight from the battery onto the sender and it's no different. I currently have it earthed to the same place as the diff lock switch (as that's were it was before hand) and that works perfect so the earth is good.

I think I'm understanding (kind of), I'm not electrically minded, bodywork is my fortè. None of it worked when I bought it so I've no idea how it should be. The 3 wires from the sender go to a multi plug on the engine side of the bulkhead and then up to the gauges. I do have another loom that I...

Ah I see. Well mine would of been a 2.5 turbo diesel and it has had a 200tdi fitted at some point down the line. That would make sense if the gauge should be reading zero but it's reading 3/4 full, a resistor of some kind would sort that. But how do I work out what size resistor I need...

I've connected the fuel wires to the temperature gauge to see if I can get the temperature gauge to act as a fuel gauge so a faulty fuel gauge can be ruled out. However it behaves in the exact same way, but when the fuel tank is empty it shows half full. Where as if I do the exact same but...

Me again. Hoping people can help with some new issues. Fuel gauge.... I've got a new sender, ran a new wire direct to the gauge itself and still doesn't work as it should. On 'empty' it says it's around 3/4 full. And then moves off the scale when it increases. I've tried another second hand...

I have the bit that sits over the gear stick etc but I need the part in front of it that bolts to the bulkhead and sits over the bell housing part. I'm also on the lookout for two front doors for a 90. Thanks in advance

It had a few issues, all of the paint was blistering, and the bulkhead was severely rotten and filled with expanding foam :mad:. So it needed plenty of work. I haven't filled every single dent, a few people have told me to leave some character to it. It was always the intention to repaint it...

Thanks. I'm going to be helping a friend with a series 3 in the near future and he wants to keep things original, or as original as possible whilst improving practicality. It's all personal preference I guess