I have 2 bench seats on one side, the bottoms fold up giving most of the space back. Alternatively you could put a drawer at the back with a storage space near the front, with a false floor level with the top of the wheel boxes.

I agree with Joe, it doesn’t list them for the 200 because you don’t need them. Personally I’ve looked at changing my na to a 300tdi but I’ve opted to keep original for now, the 300 definitely has different mount positions. I’ve seen multiple recommendations for Steve Parker kits on various...

https://www.steveparkers.com/conversions/ Check this out, if I was converting to a tdi I’d use one of these kits. There is loads of info explaining what needs to be done and why, and usually has brackets to adapt the existing mounts instead of cutting and welding

A bit like what the new Suzuki Jimney is, except the Grenadier should be a bit heftier with more grunt. BMW engines are being used so there should be a few ECU’s

Thought it was meant to be simple and back to basics lol, starting off with fancy piecemeal videos...

Most likely transmission wind up. On one occasion I gave up and jacked up a wheel to make sure it popped out. As the weight came off the wheel it was turning.

We all like a few pics ;) Did mine not so long ago. My balls were in excellent condition B) it was my swivel seal, stub axle and bearing grease which were the issues. New bearings fitted whilst I was in there. No problems getting the balls off (1987 landy), just no access to torque the bolts...

With a new timing belt you may also need to time the injection pump, I guess in this cold weather it could be too far out to work. At least finding the V notch would confirm you’ve done the belt right. Pics from the LR workshop manual attached.

Also sounds like you need to put your new glow plugs in and try it before you write the engine off or do anything serious. Head gasket is easy, just follow workshop or Haynes manual

14J and 15J are freight rover/taxi versions of the same engine. Slightly higher injection pump location and non-waterproof timing case. I don’t know whether you could fit your 12J ancillaries to a 14 or 15J block. 12J is the standard engine, 11J and 13J have the military modified breather. Any...

Looks really lovely!

That Merlin site is good but only works up to a certain release date. I presume they will update it every so often so if wolf landys don’t come up they may do in time. Even my Sankey Wide Track came up.

Half and half refers to topping up the grease filled swivel with EP90. The resulting mixture is thicker than EP90 alone so may not leak out as much. I’d call it a stop gap measure to buy time until the swivels can be refurbished.

Does the td5 have diagnostics? If your oil is fine and air filter clear/dry see if it has any codes? Check plugs on ecu’s and injectors for water contamination

If you think they haven’t been done in ages and swivels look a bit weepy it can’t do any harm to put half a pack of one shot in each. Just don’t do it every year...

Mine often stops on the cam so as suggested try turning crank 1/2 turn and see if it pumps. Unfortunately oil in air filter could be a worn engine, however could just be a very old air filter. Don’t forget to check the sedimenter behind the rear wheel is free of water.

I’d also be checking battery terminals, is the batt clamped down? Something is probably loose and you don’t want to end up with a short.

I noticed on my na that the alternator had a small adjustment bar, and the civvy engine had a much longer one giving more adjustment. The original military one didn’t seem to get quite tight enough with aftermarket belts

As you say, white fleet or also known as CL (civvy) spec. Recently pastel green county ones have been released. At an RAF base and no seats in the back, likely an airfield runabout for a working/maintenance crew. May not have a Merlin record.