"You picked a fine time to leave me loose wheel". They don't like running about with the lug nuts not tensioned properly.

All as above, but first turning the engine over by hand a couple of rotations using a socket on the crankshaft nut as an initial step will go a long way toward giving peace of mind before doing a powered turn over.

Mate of mine with a Disco same as mine fitted a new factory 300Tdi long engine, VVT ex some Ford, big intercooler, pump tweak, all the good stuff, against my old bog stocker not a lot of difference, couldn't see the value in all the extra financial outlay and all the work, it was better, but...

Use the "maximum fuel screw Luke"... Equivalent of "the force"...Fark the environment! More go, lots of smoke...yes! You did say you like to play.

Corrections; 13mm AF locknut on fuel screw and dimension given as 23mm is in fact 22mm measured as described in previous post.

I will double check but what I have is 23mm, basically it is a measurement from the 6mm AF top end of the adjustment screw to the underside of the 12mm AF locknut against the washer face, a picture would be better to show but I don't know how to put photos up. I have seen the tuning guide but...

I live in a very small remote area country town every Disco that ever came to the area and broke down/rusted away ended up out on my old mates acreage along with his prior collection of about 20 series LandRovers, (he calls anything other than series LR, poofta LandRovers) I salvage any useful...

Definitely not EDC, I have 3 spare pumps, re sealed and fitted one to the Disco yesterday noticed that the original pump and two of the other spares had the max fuel screw set identically the same but the one I fitted, when I checked, MF screw was 1mm further in. Could only assume the three...

Any learned gents on here who can tell me which way to rotate the "stop screw" for the maximum fuel setting on a Bosch VE IP to slightly increase fuel delivery, is it in or out? Vehicle is a '98 Disco D1 with 300Tdi engine.

Drain plug for coolant is LHS toward front of engine block sort of behind/below alternator. Valve heads do not have to be bent much to leak enough to stop your diesel starting.

@dag019 if you remove the rocker gear from the head then turn the engine with the starter motor and you find the engine turns hard and evenly, (even compression with no "chuffing" from exhaust or inlet manifolds) then that would indicate the valve timing was out due to the "shock shearing" of...

Think it's officialy and affectionately known as a "carcass", perhaps it smells bad! You can strip all the old backing foam off and paint them, (the carcass), no more sagging lining ever again, did my D1 headlining about 6years ago, still looks good.

Oy!, Ease up, some of us don't live in Englington..........

Those plugs are tapered thread, once it has "cracked" from tight it should come out easily, sounds as if it may have had some sort of loctite or other thread sealer used on it, bearing in mind some of the sealant materials have the same anerobic properties as the proper loctite thread locker...

That's what @jamesmartin said wasn'it, post #11.

Diesel = MPG. Petrol= GPM.

Couple of things here Dips, 1/Considering the age of some of the Landies discussed on here they ain't all that bad, it's a mass collection of a lot of old vehicles, in fact they will/have outlasted many of the "throwaway" newer generation vehicles. 2/My disco turned 20 this year, it had a rough...

Because I had only seen them as "industrial" engines here, we had vm's running pumping units generators, lighting plants and powering fishing trawlers. But as said, when I test drove the rrc back in '88 I was most impressed, more recently helping my mate to transplant the vm into his County I...

A small packet of M&M's, love that chocolate!

You need to be old and a "Rumpole of the Bailey" fan to know that one.