Combining Stanleysteamer's original idea and PopPop's development, I guess the easy way to do this will be to invert the existing bolt and JBWeld it to the bottom part of the housing pointing upwards. Then I just use an appropriate nut on top of the housing. I'm more likely to get a decent...

That is an interesting idea, I had not considered fixing the nut in place. :) Is this the stuff you mean? Sealey SCS380 Quick-Set Liquid Metal

Unless you have aircon and the PO stripped the threads on the centrifugal filter housing and secured it with nuts underneath........then it becomes really tricky. :mad: Question is - do I leave as is and just put up with it, do I re-tap to a wider thread, or do I bite the bullet and replace the...

Resurrecting an old thread, can you do this in situ without removing the exhaust manifold? My D2 started taking a long time to get to the mid position on the temp gauge, so I decided to swap the thermostat as this was the most likely culprit. Sadly there was some oil in the coolant and the...

Thanks, worth bearing in mind. He doesn't tow (at the moment) and has removed the tow bar. Last time I had a trailer was when I had a catamaran, and I sold that 3 years ago.

Thanks that is exactly my conclusion as well. My plan is to buy a Britpart branded one as this should give the best chance of matching the current Britpart installation. However, as Britpart lights are made by WIPAC, it is possible that they have switched to the current WIPAC internals. In...

Sounds good, I'll check tomorrow. I went over it all again today. Same result, with the new light connected it works as expected, but the old light shows full brilliance when the brake pedal is not depressed, but goes to tail light intensity when the brake is applied. Oddly with the new light...

I have not yet gone diving into the loom at the driver's rear quarter beyond accessing the connector for the tail/stop light (3 wires), and testing the light off those wires. The connector is tucked away inside the cabin and disappears through the floor to a space that can be accessed from...

RHS was the one that got broken. With no RHS light the LHS works fine, but as soon as you connect the WIPAC light it is in brake mode when the RHS is in tail and vie versa.

Thanks. We have tried every possible combination of connections. It is not helping that the AMP connectors are reversed left to right - male to left light, female to right light. This does not change the connections, but does mean we cannot just swap from side to side to check they give the...

Bump.

If you have a CDL you could lock the diff and remove the front prop shaft. If the noise/sluggishness is gone then it was the shaft and not the CV joint.

My son's TD5 D90 came with NAS-style LED lights (Britpart?) which have to date worked really well. However, having lifted it by 2" and fitted 255/85/16s, what he did not anticipate was that the larger tyre on the swing away carrier would now contact the tail light when opened - which it did...

There is only one decent reason to switch to coils and that is if you are planning on driving to places where an air suspension failure could leave you stranded. It is common for people preping their trucks as overlanders or exped vehicles to switch to coils and remove the ACE to improve...

Good luck. They are out there but expect to pay about £4K for a really good one. I bought exactly what you are after two and a half years ago, but paid £3800. Look for an enthusiast seller, dealers will be looking for £6K for anything cosmetically decent even if the chassis is totally f**ked.

I forget the units (volumetric flow for the MAF and pressure for the MAP) but at full power on a standard engine you should see 600-650 on the MAF and around 230 on the MAP. If you are getting good figures for the MAF, but low ones for the MAP, then as the air has to have gone somewhere, you...

Could it be a high pressure loss of boost? Possibly a split pipe or leaking jubilee clip? At low levels of boost the pressure is not enough to open the split and dump the pressure, but as soon as you give it the beans it spills all the air. When you get a scanner check the MAF and MAP...

Do they mean the Throttle Position Sensor? If so the MIL (Engine Check Light) would be lit if it was faulty.

Not a pig of a job, but drum brakes can be a bit of a faff. It sounds silly, but make sure you press the T'box seal in the right way around.

If the original EKA did not work someone may have changed it. If you connect a Nanocom or Foxwell NT520 or 530 you will be able to read the current EKA directly.