Thanks, I will. If it were just the speed reading that was not working I would have changed the green transducer as a matter of course, but the digital readout has also failed. As the feed for the two things is through different connectors it is causing me to consider that the entire unit is dead.

The speed reading is not working and the digital display no longer reads. First thought was an earth fault but there is a strong 13V at the connectors and the back lights still come on. How do I decide if this is a dead speedo unit or something external? I could buy another unit, but that would...

Hi The fuel pump recently stopped working on my son's TD5 D90. No prior symptoms, just sudden loss of power. Checked the obvious fuse and checked that the relay clicked. All seemed good so used the cut-hole-in-the-floor method to replace the pump with an OEM one from Rimmer Bros. Still would...

Thanks for the responses everyone. I started considering this in order just to make disconnecting the battery a bit easier. Then I thought about using it as a means of protecting the battery if I left the D2 alone for a few weeks. But what are the implications for security? If I leave the car...

A search has not turned anything up, but I'm sure that this has been done many times. Where are people fitting battery cutouts to their D2 TD5s? I am not needing this for competition or off road safety, so do not need (or want) it to be accessible from outside the vehicle. I simply want to...

I have Dixon Fabrication Tree Sliders fitted to my D2 TD5 and am very happy with them. However, they have taken the odd minor knock and the powder coating was not premium quality from new. As a result I have had to wire brush them a few times, treat with Kurust and then layers of Satin...

Are you quite sure that your system is not replacing coolant with combustion gases? If the top hose is rock hard and vey hot, it could be full of combustion gases. If you open the bleed when it is rock hard do you get coolant or gas out?

As long as you are fixing the light guards with security screws or riveting them. Off in seconds otherwise.

As long as your spare wheel sits on a swing away mount there is no adverse load from the spare wheel type, and you can still open the door (at least partially and with some care) and access the back of the truck. You have to take the whole lot off to get in if you have it on the tow ball.

If the blocked breather is restricting air from entering the tank, then the air pressure in the tank will slowly reduce until the pump lacks the power to pump out any more fuel. With the engine off I imagine that air will gradually force its way back into the tank, perhaps making the bubbling...

I have used the products above and they are OK for a temporary fix that will get you through a season. The top up gas works well on a solid system that has just gradually lost pressure, but if you have enough of a leak to need the stop leak product, you will eventually need to get it fixed. To...

If the level was low the first few times after driving it following a coolant fill, I would assume that an airlock had partially cleared and top it up. If after a while it stays level, fine. But if it were low again consistently I would start looking for a leak, starting with the expansion cap...

Advice as above regarding the top nut. It should not be a nyloc, but people fit all kinds of things... When you come to put it back on I found it really handy to have someone at the top reaching down to apply enough friction on the extension(s) for the ratchet to work, while it is tightened from...

If you mean the stainless strips to prevent theft of headlights, I have not managed to find anyone selling anything like that.

Hence my question about the MIL (Engine Check Light). On a manual there are only two sensors that will cause the MIL to come on, and one of them is the Throttle Position Sensor which could cause the symptoms you describe. If the MIL is not on, then the TPS is unlikely to be your problem.

Do you have the MIL (engine check light) lit. If yes then, TPS or crank position sensor are likely culprits. How did you check the crank position sensor? Even if the sensor is working and the cable in good condition a fuzzy signal due to interference can be enough for the ECU to prevent start...

Moving to the TD5 or Defender section would seem sensible. As to your problem, assuming you do not have an immobiliser fitted, it sounds as if the there is too much resistance in the starter motor circuit. Possibly a corroded earth?

The TD5 needs a strong battery to start as the ECU powers the injectors. 9v is quite a big initial drop and certainly way too low for start, but 11.6v should be OK. However, if it only achieves that after being charged then it is clearly not in the best of health.

Hello mate, welcome.

What is your at rest and cranking battery voltage?