If you private message me with an address, I'll stick 2 in the post for you

I'm not sure the epoxy would retain the cable over the ball. Short term I'd imagine even a rubber band fitted over the ball before the cable end was fitted & then wrapped over the cable end might work. Your idea of buying another cable to get the retaining clip would work, but would be an...

I'm guessing somebody has managed to lose the spring clip that should hold it in place . I doubt that you can buy the clip seperately as a new part as it's just part of the cable assembly. You might need to get somebody to make something as suggested by lynall or found a replacement secondhand...

Jay, what model of Disco have you got?

I think RCP parts won't be far from you . They're on Facebook via the following link : https://www.facebook.com/Replacement-Chassis-Parts-295205760673497/?ref=page_internal If I remembers correctly they're near Southam. I haven't used them , but know a few friends who have & they've all said...

The cross heads will be full of debris if they're anuything like mine were. You can use the sharp end of a Stanley knife blade to clean it all out to make sure the bit grips well

The 2 cross head screws that screw through the lower part of the wing into the trim panel can be real pig to remove due to the crud that ends up in the threads. I've always needed an 1/4 inch Ratchet drive with the relevant cross head bit to get enough torque to loosen them unless they've been...

Sorry, should have said I have a 2 inch lift, but didn't have contact either with previous 1 inch lift. I have pretty soft springs too (200 lb/ in), well below "Medium Duty" stiffness.

I assume you've got modular steel wheels on the rear ? They don't help as they put the outside edge of the tyre too far out to avoid contact unless you run narrow tyres Where is your contact ? At the top, or front or back ? I run 235/85 x16s Insa Special Tracks (same pattern as you by the look...

Welders don't like galvanising - as Stanleysteamer says, it gives off lots of very toxic fumes while welding & I think needs more skill to weld through. For info I think the 2200mm section is probably a lot more work than eg a 1400mm section & requires a lot more care as you're removing the...

Standard height at the front is 500 +/- 15 mm (wheel centre to wheel arch lip) Rear is 483 +/-15 mm (10mm lower on air) Add the relevant 52mm for a 2 inch lift. I'm sure you can get away with adding a simple switch to tell the system CDL is on or off.

Unfortunately, it doesn't mean its not the front brakes, but probably less likely. The hub geometry was changed on the D2 & similar age models to decrease the sensitivity to braking imbalance (because they were forced to improve brake performance if part of the system failed). If they did it...

I assume the shock on the right is not a gas shock and is just not extended.

So when you looked at the Slickshift, you checked the gearlever was aligned correctly for (I think) 3rd / 4th ? If you google something like " land rover R380 bias plate alignment", you should find the instructions for alignment - if you've not found them already. Re-reading your original post...

The slickshift will magnify any engagement difficulties - because its designed to reduce gearlever travel at the expense of increasing the effort to move the lever. It's probably worth trying to re-set the position of the slick shift bias plate as the symptoms you describe are often related to...

255/60 x 18 are approx 5% larger diameter than standard. There is usually a better tyre choice at this size than 255/55 x 18 & the extra sidewall depth should make the ride slightly better / softer. I use them on my D2 TD5 for those reasons. If you go for them, your speedo will underread...

Land Rover front springs are typically quite a bit shorter than rears, so although the spring rate might be higher (stiffer), the reduced length could cause the rear to start very low. 110 fronts will be approx 380~390mm long - dependant on actual spec, whereas D1 rears are approz 410~430mm -...

No problem ! I was actually checking mine for exactly the same thing yesterday :)

your positions are correct

Top corners of the windscreen are well known leak points too. I've had to do ours twice in 10 years.