bugger - just checked. it's the same product from autosparks for 200tdi and 300tdi... which makes sense. LR442 on their numbering system. so not in stock.

nope... not that flush! found the same thing on Famous four.... a bit too much of a price jump for me!

that's not a bad idea... given that I don't have a 300tdi engine... do you know what the differences are @GATSO ?

£95 from autosparks.... in theory! ouch. quite a difference.

Hi folks, I win top numpty prize... I totally forgot the chassis loom was still inside the chassis when I started cutting up my old 300tdi 110 chassis!!! numpty.... anyway, I want to buy a brand spanking new one, so that I can be the first to butcher it. I have tried autosparks, but I gather...

I told my mate who's into his classic cars (but normal sized ones)... He just couldn't wrap his head around a 10mm gap being OK.... Hahaha. Solihull engineering eh! Got a load of things tidied up today... Steering arms bolts and radius arm bolts tightened up. Fuel tank bottom and cradle got a...

That's the way to do it.....

I did give the ratchet strap a go, but with the gearbox fitted and xmember in, there's nowhere for the chassis to go really.

Aaron - spot on - I also get 1497mm on my bulkhead. Centre to centre. Guess what.... The original and the new chassis holes are both 1507mm !!! I take it back Richards.... It seems the bulkhead has shrunk 10mm during the galving.

Oh right... Is this a combo of Solihull build quality and my lack of knowing when to deploy landy tool number 1?

There's a bit of an angle on the photo which doesn't help James. When it's all lifted in place the bolt does overlap the hole a bit... And it's m10 I think, so it's slightly less than 10mm by that logic.

It's the other way James. I need the chassis holes to be further in-board:

If you could find that measurement Aaron, that'd be great. When it's not ****ing down outside I'll measure some more stuff on the original chassis too.

Props are standard 300tdi. From the online part manual. Ordered then from lrdirect as I wanted the option of hardy Spicer, which I think are oem. I'm pretty annoyed today. What should have been a very visually impressive day (fitting the front bulkhead) had revealed what I think is a Richards...

More prezzies today:

That's what he's told me anyway, which is about all I can go on with this stuff..be interested to know if you get the same advice. I think he might be on the forum actually. @Paintman ?

The polish the crap out of it technique is a good example of how this paint is totally different. Whatever your top coat looks like, is your finish. No flatting, no coating, no polishing. It takes 6 years to fully cure apparently. It's exactly the same as chassis black I think... But a thinner...

Meh... I've spent a damn sight more than that, I can assure you... But still a lot less than the 5k a decent respray would cost.

Yep more categories indeed, but most people fall into the first 2 groups I reckon. Bare in mind another major group is people who spray modern paints... Which this is not. I read tonnes of crap about keying old paint with anything from 80 grit to 320 grit, and everything in between. I now know...

Some oils are known to spontaneously combust. Boiled linseed oil is the only one I've had experience of. No idea if that helps.