I might be being a prat, but I think mine used to read the same with the engine not running, I put it down the the sensor reading the air pressure at sea level. Not sure about you overboost thing though . I always used to remove about a bar from whatever figure to get the true pressure.

No problem, hope it fixes it!

This was when I had the issue: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/r380-emulsified-oil.376986/

Check the gaiter on the selector housing, mine had split and had exactly the same problem.

Mine did a similar thing, was running fine then started running really lumpy and cut out. Managed to get it going again by running the priming cycle. Diagnosed to be a tank full of kitchen roll which blocked everything up. Cleaned pump, tank and a new filter and it's been fine since.

I'm running Goodyear all terrain adventures on mine, never really tested them off road but always felt very planted on the road and aren't too noisy.

Thanks, just changed it and now neither driver or passenger door locks so will put it back and get new actuator assemblies. Suppose there's usually a reason things get fiddled with.

Hi all, Just playing around in the menus in the Hawkeye in the D2 today, and I'd like to change the Superlock setting so it's on the double PLIP or double key setting, However when I alter it then go back in its reset. There is a bit at the end of the list about 'Program Market Features', is...

They were right, head bolts never need thread locker, the torque their done up to is easily sufficient to stop them coming undone. With thread locker they'd probably shear when undoing them.

I usually go on the principle of copying whatever Landover did, if you take a bolt out with threadlocker on put it back in with some on, but that probably doesn't help much. The blue stuff(usually medium strength) is fine for 90% of things.

No need to run anything in, just keep an eye it doesn't suck an air bubble through and drop the coolant level.

Ah. Its amazing how often a curious interest into a minor problem turns out to be something far bigger(and more expensive).:D Thanks so much for your help on this, there is no way I would have clocked onto it having the wrong ECU, would have started looking elsewhere and spending money...

Not sure which number you mean, so here's pics of all the numbers on it. I did notice that the SALL number doesn't match the cars chassis number.

I cleaned the egr out when I did the MAP, it initially had a historic code that the egr was stuck but I tested it with a vaccum gauge and moved fine after cleaning it. I've just found a reciept to the previous owner for an ' Engine ECU' from a 4x4 breakers yard for £200 quid. I take it it's not...

Don't reckon so, the revs don't increase without the speed going up, going through the receipts for it it had clutch about 50,000 miles ago. Is the smoke under load an indication? Is not thick but it's enough to make the cars behind back off:D

Manual, and there was no extra people or excess weight.

255/55/R18 Goodyear all terrians. Mabye I'm making a fuss of nothing, but the car and car trailer was less than a tonne , and some of the slower steeper hills still needed 1st or 2nd to get up. Id say the power is similar to my old 200tdi.

After taking it out, it breifly hit 236 kpa uphill and quite regularly sat at 210 odd when accelerating.

Ok, I cleaned the egr and map sensor a few months ago, I've just checked the Map again and it was slightly oily but the little hole was still clear. Will see what the hawkeye says when I take it out tonight and'll report back. Thanks

Hi, thanks for the responses. Yes, the disco is is 2001, it supposedly had a stage 1 remap by empire according to the bloke I bought it off, and he seemed genuine. Thing is , I have never driven any other TD5 to compare it to, but I towed the car trailer yesterday for the first time and it did...