Yes they can I’ve done it. They tell you that you need new horseshoe clips but I just closed mine up a bit with some grips before re fitting, you need to put some oil on the shaft as you re fit them. Take care that you get the correct ones the earlier engines had a lower pressure system with...

Ok you need to go: Settings - info But I could only get there with the ignition on,

Let me take a look and come back

In the menus there is an ECU status, this will tell you if it is immobilized or healthy, Communication with the ECU is only fully operational when the ignition is switched on, sorry if you already know that but it had me ad first.

If it keeps getting worse and shakes the car probably drive shaft, if it dies back when you change up it may be engine related.

Is it vibration at engine speed or wheel speed? There are many reports of vibration between 18 hundred and 2k rpm which often dies down above these revs. The shafts are different for manual and automatic boxes

I have bought from GOS and they have been ok. May be worth a call and ask them straight out.

Probably get plenty of parts from that, pity the inlet manifold seems to be missing, I am starting to wonder about restoring a manifold and cleaning out the muck to fit on mine

Look at the post on page two shows the place to extract the air. https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic35028.html?highlight=fuel+filter&start=15 I suspect you have a leak letting air into the line.

Take a look at post number 4 here: https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic35647.html?highlight=fuel+filter

I bought the magnetic sump plug from Opie oil, it's made by goldplug, drilled and tapped it to suit I think it's 14 mm has to be correct length too, I already had a tap to suit but be careful to get the right thread pitch, you need a copper washer as the thread is parralel, and be certain to get...

Not sure on that but if you look at the attachment on the other thread the wiring diagram shows the colour of the wires, so check the connections on each relay shoe, should help you. I used a short length of single wire and jumped the power in the shoe while the relay was removed the pump...

I had exactly the same story, withj no glow plug lights and no fuel pump sound, it was the relay under the drivers seat, replaced it and it was OK: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/need-some-electrical-help.337494/

Do you get the yellow heaters dash board light when you first turn the ignition key ? Did you listen for the pump outside the vehicle, if the pressure is ok it is quite quiet. You can check the voltage on the feed from the relay to the fuel pum, under the driver's seat.

Take care you can tell them any value, but when it comes to payment of a loss they will use their own value, and you would explode. You have to get an agreed valuation where they ask you questions and request pictures, they they agree the replacement value in case of a total loss.

Isn't the brake pipe bracket held by the bolt in the top swivel pin? If you free it off then the swivel will move and not sit in the center of the seal possibly leaving a slight gap between seal and swivel, and allowing the oil to leak.

I left both of mine connected, I know the MOT people dont remove any covers to check but it may change, the little blank plate is pretty hard to spot, but taking the valve out or disconnecting the pipes or control solenoid is a bit of a giveaway.

The vacuum to operate the valves is generated by the pump on the alternator, which also operates the brake servo, if the pipes are not blocked in some way then the braking should be affected, I left the pipes connected and put a small blinking plate in the flange of the flexible pipe coming from...

Interesting thanks. I saw a kit for BMWs which removed the flap and actuator and replaced it with a machined plug which has a two bolt flange to block off the opening in the manifold. Perhaps I need to asses the condition of my manifold and maybe give it a go with some oven cleaner, mine is low...

Me and the beach boys preferred California grills