335,000 miles on mine. Have seen one over 400k, heard of one over 500k but not seen it myself.

My last set of KOs got pretty wild in the wet towards the end of their life, presumably the rubber is harder at the bottom of the treads. The KO2s are good, but only done 28,000 on them so far so too early to tell if they’ll be the same.

Quite agree, they’re no good for proper mud plugging. They work for me because of my road use and because the off-reading I do undertake is generally on hard rocky/gravelly routes for which they are very well suited. They also work well in snow.

Indeed. I’ve had several sets of road tyres and BFG ATs on mine and never noticed a difference in noise or fuel economy. Last set of BFGs did 72,000 miles in two years, so very good value for money also. A set of 235/85/R16 BFG ATs and lose the 2” lift would be my recommendation.

They all have splines, the later ones just have a nut as well. Older ones just had the arm clip on to the splines. If the spindle is turning freely without the motor moving then there is an issue in the wheelboxes or drive cable, either misalignment, incorrect fitting, or the teeth are missing...

It should improve with use, hence recommending to drive it round for a bit. Every single time I’ve bled a clutch I’ve managed to get a pedal that works (albeit at the very end of its travel) which then improves by itself over a day or two as the remaining air works its way out. I wouldn’t...

Or just air in the system. Drive it for a day or so and see if it improves. I’ve always had to let the system self-bleed the last bit of air out.

If you live in London as your profile suggests then you will want to read up on the LEZ and ULEZ and the implications for Land Rovers before buying one.

Fit an aftermarket cruise control unit, I have a Waeco one. Works great.

If it’s been serviced well then no issues as stated. Mine is on 330k and still going well.

Either: 1. New crossmember with longer extensions 2. New crossmember with normal extensions and splice into the existing extensions 4. New crossmember with no extensions and as above 5. New rear 1/4 chassis 6. New chassis Have a damn good look at the rest of the chassis before spending big...

Time to buy some recovery I think?

Warning light not working then?

That’s because Marsland don’t manufacture the chassis - they buy them from GKN who also made them for Land Rover. Hence why, apart from modified engine mounts etc., the chassis are to the original spec.

As above, that looks like mine did and it works fine.

Pretty much as you have it but there’s a special shouldered bolt that should be used.

No relay in the headlamp circuit on any 90/110/Defender, from 1983 to 2016. Other than the one that turns them off when the ignition is off, but it doesn’t remove the load from the light switch. I found the Boomslang loom poor quality and ended up changing for the Landreizger one which is far...

Slave push rod sticking out 10mm sounds about right to me. First time I did mine I thought it looked like it wasn’t enough as well but it always seems to work okay.

Must be done at straight ahead position, never at full lock.

If clutch is okay then it could also be the grub screw on the selector rail under the gear lever.