Yup, me too. Ended up jacking the Landy up with the trolley jack foot on the bottom of the relay pin, and sledge hammering the chassis (wooden block sacrifices) to try to free it up. Mud and silt collect around the relay in the chassis former and set like concrete. There is a way to change the...

So it must work it's way up the copper conductor? Just one wire or many? Just thoughts

Just a couple of questions for those more knowledgeable than me. Looking at the Britpart kit, the loom you get is not the whole section back to the red plug. Is the oil in this section of the loom likely to be a problem?

That is what I thought. Guess that's another £40 I gotta spend. Oh well. Just shelled out £30 on a pair of horn buttons!

just checked the loom on my newly acquired D2 TD5 and you guessed it, oil in the multiplug. Still running sweet as a nut, so dried it all out, clean and nice, until I get round to changing it. If I am going to keep using it, how often would you recommend checking the multiplug to make sure the...

Hah. Sudden change suggests something broke, and the "taking time means it doesn't grind" all points to a possible synchro hub issue. Downside is that the only certain way to find out is a box out and strip down, as unless you are very lucky, and repair will need the gear sets out. But wil only...

Hmmmmm. If it's grinding a bit, sounds like more than dirty oil. How many miles on it? I would suggest an oil change, but check the oil coming out very carefully for any bits, especially in the plug. First thought is a missing tooth or 2 on the synchro hub or a broken detent spring in a synchro...

I always used the change my old RR V8 oil every 3k. Those big end bearings are not very wide compared to the old Landy Engines, and can wear if fed a diet of old oil and low oil levels.

"You pull that pin, extend the tube, look down the sights and push that button" "What, this button here?" - click.....WOOSSSHHHHH......... "Oopssss"..........."BOOOOMMMMMMM!!!!!!!!" . . Did that fix it, or do we have a Range Rover shaped mushroom cloud....

And finally today, removed one of the jump seats to find out why the unlocking mechanism doesnt work when trying to put the seat away. Soon as it was unbolted it was obvious, simply the cable from the twist grip on the back of the seat had become unclipped. Re fitted and we are back in business...

Yeah, but at least normally you could fix it with a bag full of wet spanners and a hammer. I could.....usually......errrrr....except the time it dropped a valve and No 3 cylinder exploded.....and then there was the time a half shaft snapped......oh yeah and the time the fanbelt snapped and I had...

And another rumour was that the used to bury the Rolls royce Merlin blocks for a couple of months to do the same de stressing before they became Spitfire engines!!

Well this mornings "Discovery adventures" didn't quite go to plan. I was hoping to dry out the OSF headlight, change the wing mirror and look into the NSF window malfunction. Got there eventually but with some diversions on the way. Headlight dried out OK, but discovered broken lower light...

Sue, don't apologise for long winded replies!!! Information is power / vital when asking the forum for advice. Your description is very good. However it does reveal the following. The timing belt did strip the teeth when starting (the grinding noise) and the whirring noise is the engine...

How much do you want to spend? For enough money people will refurbish anything! But freelanders are by far the cheapest of the Land Rover family, and as such, do not yet attract the same level of restoration business as the older models. That said, I am sure someone will know of a company who...

If possible, any chance of a few more pics of the bottom end of the pulley? If the belt has stripped at the bottom pulley there may / should be some debris looking like shredded black rubber present - I can't se any in the first pics. Get someone to turn the car over on the starter motor and see...

It does look like it's head off time unfortunately :(

Hmmmmmm. I think the jumping PAS belt could be a starter for 10. Once on full lock, the pump tried to pump against a "dead head" i.e. There is nowhere for the fluid to push against, so it loads the pump more, which in turn stresses the belt. If the belt is not tight enough, it may jump and grab...

Damn. That heavy oil in the inlet is almost certainly what made the heavy knock. Engine oil doesn't burn easy and as it is just "there" not atomised by the injector it burns slowly causing the knock. Can damage gaskets and piston crowns. What's your cylinder compression test results? Satisfactory?

Good luck! I am guessing Dunsfold, Paddock or Craddocks will be able and best suited to providing all the oily bits and gaskets. Just don't scrimp on parts thinking "it'll be OK". Do all the bearings and synchro hubs too. That way it should last another 200k!!!