Was the compressor wheel damaged, or can you, just like I did, get away with buying a new exhaust wheel and shaft for a lot less than a complete CHRA?

New (Melett) exhaust wheel and shaft turned up last week and I set about the second, partial, rebuild (partial because I only needed to refit the shaft and wheels). First off here's a line up all the CHRA parts from the first full rebuild: And now the assembled CHRA with new shaft and...

Rebuild kit was a Flat Back Rebuild Kit bought from https://www.turborebuild.co.uk/webshop/prod_3444877-Turbo-Repair-Rebuild-Service-Repair-Kit-fits-TD04-Mitsubishi-Turbocharger-Bearings-and-Seals-Flat-Back.html I gave them a call to make sure it was the right rebuild kit and ordered it along...

I didn't buy a new CHRA for mine, but did rebuild it with an after market seal and bearing kit (which was about £25 here in the UK) because the shaft, exhaust compressor and exhaust wheels were fine...right up until I tried to torque the new left hand thread 12 point lock nut down at 8Nm and...

Ah, now, I may have that adapter for the dial gauge as we turned one up to go on a Bosch VE pump, as my VW T25 1.6 JX TD uses one, as does the 200/300Tdi too... I also have a digital Mitutoyo gauge that by no means was scavenged from something about to be launched into a skip that I was filling...

Ok, so what tools do I need to procure to remove the pump? Seen these on ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/175232234278?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Dnm2AaYhQpK&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=IYMS6zhHQWu&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Pondering whether it's worth putting a new...

:( Urgh....that would be an expense potentially too far

:mad: Took the P38 for a quick test drive and the pump is now leaking from somewhere else, with drips coming from around the the distributor housing where it bolts to the main body...

Well after nigh on a full day on trying to get one of two Torx socket bolts out on the engine side cover plate of the pump I finally managed to get enough grip on it through a combination of mole grips and parrot jaw wrench to get it off. Then the 5 minute job of actually swapping the seals on...

Found the thread: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/diesel-no-fuel-at-fip.296267/

Ta, I did find a thread on here yesterday from 2016, but can't locate it now, where yourself and the late Wammers talked someone else through nigh on the same problem. What I took from it was: I've not bled the system I've not aligned the metering head properly I may have dropped 'the shim'...

Well bang goes a weekend I could have done without... For a while now there has been an increasingly strong smell of diesel coming from under the bonnet. Initially I put it down to the perished blanking plug on number 6 injector, but having replaced it the smell remained, and the injector pump...

Yeah, I've been following the instructions online for resetting the blend units which entail realigning the drive gears for the potentiometer, checking for dry joints on the circuit board holding the motor and potentiometer, and that the motor can spin, they all check out. What I haven't done is...

So, Android infotainment system installed and working, 10.1 inch screen is a touch big for the centre console! Where I currently have it installed I can't quite see all the HEVAC controls or display...and that's after a rework :oops: Speaking of the HEVAC annoyingly I can't seem to get the the...

Haven't got round to doing anything with the AC yet, but have noted that the drivers side heater mixer flap isn't working so that needs attention before it starts getting properly cold. Engine oil leaks are now minimal, I fixed a diesel leak on the no. 6 injector where the spill pipe blank had...

Don't suppose you still have any sets of NRV's kicking around @kurtjohnson10 by any chance?

The 'old' (oil ‍:confused:) would have been puddling inside the compressor housing if the seals were really bad like mine. If you only have light misting in the intercooler then it sounds like the core of you engine is fairly fit and not suffering much blowby

I'll look at dropping the pump out for a closer look, as well as making some form of adapter to allow me to pump compressed air into the system to listen for leaks. Fully expect the condenser to be shot, but want to ensure that the in cabin heat exchanger is intact!

The only way the turbo could loose any 'zip' would be if the seals were on their way out and old getting out to effectively damp the impellor, carbon build up around tge exhaust housing and wheel, extra drag in worn bearings or a worn compressor wheel so less efficient compressor. But as you...

I know...but the level hasn't really gone down...