Are you sure its the correct pad? I cant think how it would wear through the caliper - it's a wedge shape that's an awful lot to wear away enough to fall through.

My 300 sits at bang on half way and is rock steady. Even hauling it's lardy backside on full power up a 9000ft climb in the Alps. You either need a new thermostat because yours is lazy, or much more likely you have an airlock somewhere. Park on a hill if you can pointing up hill and fill as...

That would imply that the crank has somehow sheared on the nose..... that seems a very odd failure!

You are not that far from Wales surely there are loads of garages round there versed in servicing the tratter community... I don't think you will have trouble finding one if you don't take the job on yourself.

120 hmm can get a replacement rad for 80... but if you have a metal tank one and they do a copper coring then it's probably worth the extra. You might want to see what state the intercooler is in as well - they can be recored too and a new cheap intercooler is 140 so that's certainly worth...

It's a bit far to drive to Bristol sadly.... You will need a holding tool for the crankshaft and a puller for the pulley and it's possibly worth getting a replacement as they don't last forever. I can probably winkle out the pictures I took when I did mine. What price did they quote for the...

He's spent all night trapped under a Disco trying to hutch the axle forward so he can escape......

The cap I am stumped by but mines a Disco not a Defender so there could be something I dont have. Rad - it's toasted. And so will be the engine if not swapped. IF thats a metal side tank one get it recored if possible. Does the oil cooler look OK - get them to check. If a plastic side tank...

Nooo. Those hooked pipes are the breathers - if there is three then one will be the front axle breather as well as transmission. Leave them as they are. The injectors have two spill tubes for excess diesel - these need daisy chainging to number 1 and then a long line goes to the back of the...

If the fan moves jam some rubber between the belt and the wheel at the bottom so it traps it as it starts to turn. Old piece of a drivebelt is ideal if you have a scrap one you can cut 2 inch off. It will come it may take some smacking but it doenst usually present problems removing it until...

I cant see the image (might be blocked at work) but there is a small bore pipe that has a valve in it - the Y shaped thing...? If a pipe wont flow either way then that's a problem. Fan - obviously have the belt on to stop the thing moving. It's a wrong way thread so to undo smack the fan...

OK looking at your other thread where your water pump has crapped out - long thread coming up. If there is any teaching of how to suck eggs I apologise. You have to take the waterpump off to fix obviously - don't skip on a cheap one as good OEM spec ones are only about £25. Get a gasket. Now to...

I think you have a leaking down the side of the block - either a rocker box gasket or a P-gasket, or both is leaking.

OK that's a smaller alt pulley (and doesn't look like a standard alt either). I'd check the belt length and make sure you have the 1580mm one not the 1595mm

Could you be losing steering fluid from the hoses at the bottom of the top up reservoir on the left side of the rad? That could get blown back onto the belt area....

It is still possible to read the markings on the belt then to get a length from it? The oil is a mystery - lets see what the pictures show....

Did you give the chassis a really good prod and tap with a hammer? Especially around the back? Check the fluids - diffs, transfer case, gearbox as well as the engine... grease gun as others have said, there are prop shafts, balljoints perhaps.... And have fun.

How far did you get - still having issues? Photowise, https://www.thebalance.com/top-free-image-hosting-websites-1357014

Is that total pressure or boost above atmospheric? If the latter how have you kept the head bolted in place I'm amazed the engine takes that sort of boost.

If you are confident with the spanners a timing belt is easy on the 300 - if you are happy pulling belt tensioners off and dealing with stuck fasteners you wont have issues with a cambelt swap. You do need a puller for the crank pulley and a holding tool for it to do it back up, but drill bits...