Sppoky. I just found a near mint copy of the original book they wrote in a local emporium of old books. With dust jacket and almost unread. Looking forward to a read tonight I is.
I wouldn't be worried - buying a heap of crap is easy if you look for an old Disco.
Take a hammer and a screwdriver and prod everything that looks suspect - if you don't spend a good 20 minutes checking the chassis you only have yourself to blame. Check ACE if fitted, look for the three amigos...
ISnt there a harmonic damper on the front pully for a reason?
I'd suspect having removed that and the big bolt that something unfortunate has happened to the keyways and the crank sprocket and the valve and pump timing now leaves a lot to be desired. Front cover off the engine and check I think....
leave them open, and also slacken off the return banjo cap on the back of the pump. See if that banjo spurts, nip up and then wait for the unions to start spurting.
When you turn the ignition on, can you hear the pump buzz?
You have a big air leak there. Thats not helping. Looking at the spill pipes they are wet and you still have the horrible plastic final pipe going back to the pump. They crack with age and need getting rid of. Go to Halfords and get a reel of their small bore fuel piping - it's just sufficient...
If you are getting fuel at the return line on the injection pump then the next is the injectors. How do you know you are getting no fuel to the injectors?
Not sure if it's the same on a D2 but my steering box link bar worked it's nuts loose and it was exactly like the description even with the move of the steering wheel from dead ahead.
HOW
F*****G
MUCH?
Er yeah. You were shafted. I'd go back and crap in the driveway in retribution. At the very least I'd let people know where the robbing gits are based.
Was that a medical assessment or just that the doc was letting you down gently. You presumably had a craniotomy so thats at least a year off - after that anythings up for assessment.... so dont give up too easy! I know thats easy for me to say but you never know...
As for pay and play - most...
I have a "missile" switch to arm my winch before I can actually apply power to it. Despite a lot of abuse it's not fallen apart yet - but in fairness I did get it from a surplus sale when they decommissioned some missile silos so it is the real thing and wonderfully chunky.
Is the stop wire connected up correctly if it's a manual?
What condition are the fuel spill pipes like on the injectors?
Have you bled it properly - bled the filter? Then bled the injection pump - undo the cap nut holding the fuel return banjo on - crank it till it spurts fuel.
Then bleed the...
Yup compressions test. It wont rule out a bent rod but if there is a drop on one cylinder then it's fairly certain one is bent. If theres no pressure at all on one then you've a holed or cracked piston instead.
Just to second what discomania has said. There is nothing wrong with the C grade oil in that situation, and as long as you have the hot ie 40 grade oil it's going to cope with the temperatures just fine. Crack on and have a good holiday.
Don't they just...
Oil is easy.
Use any specific oil the manufacture says if they do (so say BMW LL04 or VW501) Then get a good synthetic oil and match the hot running viscosity - that's the 40 from 10W40 for example to what the manufacters states for the temperature range you are in.
Make...
If you are needing MT for greenlining then you probably shouldn't be going on the lanes in those conditions...
AT should be fine for everything you will meet in the UK apart from serious pay and play sites and will have much better on road manners too.