All your injectors are black or blue aren't they? Maybe you could also change the seals and O rings on the other 3 injectors too. If your oil level has risen, I doubt it's because of removing injectors. 6mm is quite a lot spread out over the whole sump. I suspect that you're getting fuel in the...

Well, my point in posting the video was that we mostly perceive Mahle as being better, perhaps due to it's higher cost, but the fuel filter in the video was not a lot better than the Britpart. My experience with the leaking Bearmach oil filter taught me that, despite my perception that Bearmach...

I rebuilt my engine and put on a new Bearmach filter. I was gutted to find I had an oil leak which made a mess of my nice, new engine, although I couldn't see where it was coming from. Months later I tackled the problem and found that the Bearmach had leaked from the crimp at the top, from new...

I know what you mean and I would normally agree but if you look at his photo, the chain is still laying over the cam sprocket. There's no way it would be there if it had snapped. He's turned it over a few times too. Unless the tensioner did somehow lose tension and the chain rose up off the...

I'm not sure it's just our LR world that has problems; A friend of mine with a Fiesta (Zetec) wanted to change his ancilliary belt. He bought one and started his 5 minute job in my garage. He then found that the manual says to cut the air con belt in front to get at the belt behind. They are...

I used Tyreleader for 4 tyres. I got 2. Then I got a call from a guy in Northern Ireland who had my other 2 tyres. Apparently, the sticky labels got transferred in transit so half of my shipment went to him. I've no idea where his went.

Fabricated a fix for my TD5 turbo shield. And bled the clutch again!

Ok to use existing ones with some threadlock. Threadlock the oil pump bolt too.

Looks like the chain is ok. If it had snapped it would be bunched up somewhere and you wouldn't be able to crank it over. My guess is that you lost a bolt. Maybe one of the cam sprocket bolts. Take the plastic cover off the front and have a look. Next I would take the sump off and see what you...

Thanks. That lower one looks familiar, I would have unplugged it when I took the body off. I wish I had thought about keeping the ACE from it before I scrapped the body!

I don’t suppose you can get a photo of exactly where the bottom one is can you please? Is it above the valve block?

Is there just one accelerometer? I have an unused connector behind the interior light. I read somewhere that there’s one under the drivers sill.

You can get it on without removing the actuator. The difficult part is getting the nut off but if you have a tool for that, it's not too hard a job.

Possibly just worn rocker gaskets.

I put a Terrafirma damper on mine... for an afternoon. It was way too stiff for road use. You turn the wheel and it stays where you put it. Exactly what you want off road I suppose but not for road.

I'm doing mine soon so I would be interested to hear what problems you have. Do you need a press for those bushes or just a vice?

OEM is genuine without the box. Go OEM.

So a Dowty washer between the fitting and the valve block is enough to hold pressure? No need for a tapered thread or sealant.

£60! when was that? I thought it would be a lot more. Did you have it machined so that the hoses thread into the block or was there an insert that protruded and the hose goes on to that? I will get complete hoses made up, I think because I have to thread them into place with the body on.

I got all of the ACE bits off today. The pipes coming out of the valve block were a right bugger and I've broken one of them. I was thinking to have some flexi pipes made up and join them on to the existing hard pipes going to the valve block, but since one is now ruined, I might mod the block...