Sorry, all sorted now. Didn't realise that you had replied. Thanks.

If the head gasket has let some coolant through then it seems to eat up the metal in that area. It really doesn't need much of a gap. I was losing coolant once in this manner, I replaced the HG, drove to the south of France and back, then it started to lose coolant again. The new HG held for...

I'm looking for old TD5 engines to collect. Any condition, complete or in parts. Preferably between Suffolk and Bournemouth, to make my trip there more worthwhile. Let me know if you have a stash of parts to get rid of.

In my opinion, it's quite likely that your block is not completely flat and coolant is leaking out under the head gasket into the cylinders. Im rebuilding one now with exactly this problem and using similar amounts of coolant.

What are the differences? I have a 1984 90 to convert to discs all round. As long as it fits this car and has discs, I don't think I mind where they come from.

I rebuild the TD5 if it's something you want to get done in the future - staglandrover. For the oil in exhaust, are you sure it's not just water coming out after collecting some soot, making it look like oil?

Looking for front & rear axles for a disc brake conversion. In suffolk preferably. All sorted now, thanks.

Richard, The wife's car has this fault so I'm keeping the mech for her. Sorry.

Oh, I see. My experience was some years ago and I can't remember how the cooler attaches tbh. It was a P38. I assumed they are the same but maybe different.

I am breaking an '08 Freelander 2 TD4. Most parts currently available but not for long. I am keeping the engine. Currently available and still on the car: Gearbox Front diff Brakes/hubs Doors Interior - cloth but in pretty good condition 18" wheels, poor tyres This is my first Freelander to...

Just as a word of caution, you might want to check the thread on the cooler. I don't want to make your job any harder for no reason but it would be a shame to have it come off again. The reason that I make the comment is that some years ago, I sold what I thought was a good cooler only to be...

Yes, I was about to buy a pair from them but I wanted to check if it really is the bearings that are at fault rather than the crank.

Does anyone have a new ERR5345 that wasn't made in China? I need to know the proper thickness of a new one please? I'm trying to install my crank but it's getting hung up on the thrust bearing. My bearings are Allmakes - made in China. I don't trust them to be honest.

Today I repaired my engine loom on the TD5. Including replacing the glow plug leads and a new shielded cable to the CPS. It now looks like this... Not like this...

I did this with mine last week. Water slowly trickles through. It was brown and manky so I tried it with another used one which was very clean inside and no water trickled through. My verdict was that my original was on its way out.

Yes, I did notice it was LHD but hoped it wouldn't matter for the rear motor. It was the connections internally that were useful but thanks for the RHD version, I'll save that. Where are these drawings from? Rave or some other manual?

Yeah, that's exactly what I needed to see. I should be able to work it out from that. The two extra terminals I saw must be used then, even though I don't remember unplugging any more than the big, three pin plug. Thank you.

Did you do the auto prime to get all of the old diesel out? Maybe some muck in the one injector not firing.

Engine out, fit the cover, engine back in. Simples.

What was the fix?