Look at this; http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/3_series_e36/325tds_m51_tour/3_technical_data/13__fuel_system_%28m51%29/51__inj.pump_regulator_mixt.regulator/1_td__distributor_injection_pump_control_receptacle_mixture_regulator_m51/ There is unused bolt in injection pump housing at the block...

Bend that cable end a little bit inwards and forget about it. Had this happening in all door handles. It's a result of trying to open locked door from inside by puling handle using too much force.

Tap the pump top(actutator - loosen 3 lower and one special upper bolt slightly before doing it) towards bulkhead, with 16mg per stroke on hot engine it wouldn't climb even 20mm curb. Around 5-6mg per stroke is correct for healthy pump, if it doesn't help, replace pump.

Strange things happens when both engine coolant temperature and fuel temperature sensors are dead, as fuel temp sensor is also used as backup for engine coolant temp sensor. Gear changes are controlled by engine torque, engine speed and throttle position sensor. Torque is controlled by fuelling...

Maybe dipstick tube is not all the way in and oil level readout is wrong?

As far i remember, all P38 propshafts are very very slightly phased - it's because it had different angles on UJ, and they saved money by not fitting double cardan. :D

Do you really believe that they still know how to use theese multi thousand pound machines? It's only a Land Rover, it's meant to be repaired with hammer and chisel. Those injection pumps are so simple, that you can disassemble and assembe it in the shed. :D :D

Between 5-6 mg/str with no load idling with fully warmed up engine(best to check after good run). Setting it is very very sensitive, the difference between 10 and 5 mg is almost non measurable by eye(looking at pump) Some people set it to 3-4 mg/str for better low down performance, but this can...

As for internal fuel pressure. Internal lift pump can be tired, it's simple vane pump. Also seals on pressure regulating valve can be worn, the same applies to seals on timing solenoid. Was the whole pump dismantled for inspection? You can feed the pump with high presure (5 bar fox example)...

Check for "clunk" when wobbling steering wheel with engine off - if you hear it, then check steering column. Also replace panhard and radius arms bushes with new genuine ones. Aftermarket doesn't work.

You mean it fell out of handle or cable slipped out from metal L shaped hook? I had falling out problem in mine(mainly on rear doors), cured it by bending cable ends slightly inwards. Replacing whole cable is a bit fiddly.

Not only, trust me. Every mechanic who does BMW M51 and some VW diesels know that. And setting pump on bench does not always guarantee that it will work correctly. Hot start problem is programmed in starting maps for emissions reason. Altering position of upper pump section can do wonders(even...

Yeah, and needs hot start fix. :D :D :D Only improperly adjusted and sowly cranking ones need that sh##. :D

Mine didn't have any faults too when adjusted wrong, just dropping revs when D or R selected and impossible to take off. Sliding pump top does nothing to idle speed, only reaction to increased load changes.

There is nothing to loose trying to set it to proper parameters. Internal pressure can be measured through threaded hole in pump housing on the block side. Some helpful data: BMW Workshop Manuals > 3 Series E36 325tds (M51) TOUR > 3 Technical Data > 13 Fuel System (M51) > 51 Inj.pump...

6 mg/stroke maximum at idle hot and no load, around 8 mg/stroke when AC compressor on. First set fuelling by tapping pump upper section(towards bulkhead will set it closer to spec), then check timing modulation - it's also dependant of fuel pressure inside injection pump.

Were all those measurements taken on hot engine? If yes, no wonder that it stalls with fuelling set between 11-18 mg/stroke. With automatic transmission it wouldn't even start going on slight uphill.

Do not tap the top of the pump! Even with bolts holding top of the pump tightened, it can move and alter fuelling(it can be corrected later, but why bother) - don't ask me how i know it. Try to lever it. There is also no need to remove manifold, just good set of wrenches. ;)

Fit genuine Land Rover one. Terrafirma is ok, but little stiff on cold mornings - doesn't return to center. Once warmed up, works ok, and it's cheap. :D

It's pretty simple - no need to remove it with gearbox(as described in RAVE). No special tools needed. Remove radiator, battery box, put power steering pump aside, AC compressor can be put aside too - it will be easier if you remove plastic inner wheel arches. If it's automatic, you need to...