Littelwill
Well-Known Member
Not perhaps what you want to hear but If you were closer this way I could of possibly helped you out..
You have a Nanocom you don't need the setting tools. Remove manifold, slacken fastener on support bracket at rear of pump. Mark a reference scribe line on pump flange and timing case. Very slightly back off two nuts holding pump to timing case so that pump cannot be moved by hand but can be tapped round. Using a piece of wood and an hammer tap top of pump towards engine a couple of mm per reference line. Tighten pump flange nuts. Make sure there is nothing loose on engine that can be sucked into inlets and start engine. Allow to run until warm. Check modulation at idle with Nanocom. Repeat until modulation is between 45 and 55%. When you get setting correct fully tighten pump nuts, tighten bracket fastener. Slightly crack each injection pipe at pump and retighten to remove stress. Refit manifold.
This is probably a stupid question but ...
If I tap it until the modulation is correct, that may still be way off the 0.9mm RAVE states and that could hide an underlying issue?
No it won't, if you get modulation between 45 and 55%. Ideally 50% it will be more or less exactly 0.90 mm lift. Point of injection should be within 0.5 degrees of set point engine warm at idle. With modulation between 45 and 55%. The only underlying issue you could have is knackered chains and cam timing out a little. Running with manifold off cannot effect fuelling other than if you rev it you won't get any boost fuel. You have 92% modulation at idle engine warm, that is 37% above normal and leaves little more to go to allow for injection advance at higher RPMs. The modulation solenoid is capable of changing the timing from 0 degrees (TDC) at idle engine warm to 25 degrees BTDC at higher RPMs. If the modulation is at 92% at idle because that is needed to correct retarded static timing, it has little scope to advance the injection for higher RPMs with only 8% of it's possible travel left.
Got you.
1) Make sure engine is good and hot.
2) Start sticking my hands on the red hot parts and disassemble.
3) Get hot and test.
4) Move red-hot parts as required.
5) Allow to cool and reassemble.
Piece of cake.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
As you wish, but if you follow Wammers advice, you just loosen the FIP while it's cold, manifold off, THEN warm up the engineGot you.
1) Make sure engine is good and hot.
2) Start sticking my hands on the red hot parts and disassemble.
3) Get hot and test.
4) Move red-hot parts as required.
5) Allow to cool and reassemble.
Piece of cake.
You can then tap the FIP towards the engine with a long piece of wood and a hammer. No risk of burning
Providing you follow the previous instructions. Yes.
As you wish, but if you follow Wammers advice, you just loosen the FIP while it's cold, manifold off, THEN warm up the engine
You can then tap the FIP towards the engine with a long piece of wood and a hammer. No risk of burning
Seat of the pants stuff. I like it!
What exactly do you expect to burn yourself on?
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
Good luck with it, watching with intrest as mines out a bit 67% modulation.
Results posted under original issue for continuity reasons: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/diesel-stalling-hot-weather-280887-6.html
