Could have been when Ford re-designed the back door etc.

The build quality on Land Rovers went down-hill from the end of Series 1 production onwards, for example Series 1 door frames were galvanised, all others just rot. The newer that Land Rovers are, the more cost savings appear to have been made. Land Rover stopped galvanising body cappings around...

Buy local, they made thousands of Land Rovers. Buying second hand vehicles has enough pitfalls without adding hundreds of miles into the equation.

I found that Paddocks were cheapest, cost £60 a corner for non-genuine parts. Go for tube-less, most are anyway. https://www.paddockspares.com/16x6-5-wolf-rim-tubeless-white.html

There is a pressure limiting valve to prevent the rear end locking up under heavy breaking. If the back end locks up before the fronts then the rear wheels will have less grip and will try and overtake the fronts.

If it has been jacked up 2", it will affect the castor angle which may adversely affect your steering.

Is it a new cam? I have had mystery missfires and spitting back through the carbs at high revs in the past and found that a couple of cam lobes had worn badly, preventing a couple of valves opening fully.

Because it is just as easy to do it properly.

Please don't.

If you remove or disturb the pin, the swivel moves slightly and allows a gap to open up between the lip of the seal and the ball, hence the oil leak. If all has gone back properly when you have re-tightened the pin then the oil may just be what leaked out when you were working on it.

If you disturb the pin the swivel will leak until the pin is replaced. You should be able to see if the seal has been displaced or damaged. There is a good chance the oil is the oil that has leaked out. Give the ball a good wipe over with a petrol or diesel soaked rag to clean the surface and...

I think the bottom line is that it is virtually impossible to make a centre seat safe by modern standards.

Google Glencoyne Engineering, he has loads of information regarding TDi conversions. If you get a 2.5 N/A, all 68bhp of it, you will be flat out everywhere you go. If you venture on to a motorway, you will just about keep up with the trucks...... on the flat. I put a 300tdi in mine and it...

I didn't know that it was possible to spend £20K on a Land Rover!

It doesn't look good there, but have you cleared the crap away and confirmed that it has failed? When you get your gearbox repaired, you can get a modification that drips oil into that area. Google Ashcroft Transmissions to get an idea of the parts...

I'm not sure if I can answer your question, but I fitted a 300tdi into my 2.5N/A 110, using a modified Discovery radiator and frame. I cut down my front chassis mounts to get it to fit. I had to modify the frame by cutting the mounts off the side and welding them onto the top frame to pick up on...

If the noise is coming from the gear-box / transfer-box then the output shaft can strip its splines where it attaches to the transfer-box. The splines on the drive flanges can also wear where the half-shaft enters them. This is the easiest to fix, just one failed flange will disable the vehicle...

What is the earth like to the gauges? A poor earth can make the gauge read hot.

It will be a bad earth. If your lights do weird and inexplicable things or are otherwise haunted, it is nearly always a bad earth.

If it was leaking from a hose, I would expect oily deposits around the hole and you would be able to hear it.