Thanks for the response- normally the supercharger snout will be in that space which I guess is why they route it the way they do

Although I have found a couple of Jag ebay items for XJR and XKR 4.2 which look OK...

Hi folks, Finally got the time to pursue the misfire on the RR Sport 4.2 S/C I was pursuing what I thought was an injector problem but on removing the S/C - taking of the throttle body lower elbow was a B**tard! I found that some fool and actually trapped the rubber hose that links the two fuel...

As mine is 2011 I assume unless I was lucky enough to get 2010- then the electrics won’t match - I mainly wanted to be sure that the physical door from an earlier model would fit

looking At my Defender doors the skin is about all that’s left

I’d like to see that as it may be the route to take

That was my thought - I’ve only been to one local place so far who suggested that the work to strip, remove the sound proofing would be expensive, they suggested it needed to be pulled out - but I am no b/work expert

Planning my next Landy repair…

in a fit of complete incompetence I have managed to put a scratch/dent down both passenger doors on my 2011 L322 - It may be the final straw as I’ve long felt my driveway entrance was too narrow….and on bin day in the dark and pouring rain….. anyway the local body shop say it needs ‘weld...

OK thanks for the response - I will research further as I believe that the cost of the technology is dropping rapidly - I'm looking for less aggression than a wire brush - although I absolutely agree it may be the only option

ok, not as exciting as the title suggests…. Does anyone have or have experience of laser cleaners/rust removers. I‘ve been hankering after one for a while primarily for use on the ‘66 S type Jag in my garage, but as I’m About to clean up the chassis before putting in a new bulkhead I can see...

That’s interesting - they ‘looked’ to be threaded on one side so I assumed I would have to drill and reverse out with a stud extractor

Thanks Neil - I was just thinking that looks to be the only option

After months of inactivity due to a whole series of life events I've managed to get back into the saddle of Defender repairs. I am currently replacing the bulkhead and ran into a hopefully minor problem. After spending nearly an hour working out where I was at back in February.... I removed the...

Hi all, I thought I'd answer my own post on this one - just to share the knowledge: I got in touch with JLR classic and asked the questions. They have confirmed that the pipe part number is LR018336 and that the connector in the elbow was only ever included as part of the Elbow that the...

Hi all, I‘ve been eliminating air leaks on my 4.2 s/c RRS and was running a smoke test on the throttle body yesterday and discovered smoke escaping from the base of the two pipes at the rear of the throttle body (See pics) one is hard plastic and runs to the top of a t-piece leading to the brake...

Ok drove to Swindon yesterday, took it easy all the way to avoid triggering to early and having the pain of limp mode. But I earned myself some new codes… Misfire on 5 Misfire on 7 Low cat efficiency bank 2 Too lean bank 1 5 and 7 are on the same side - bank 2 The car starts on the button, it...

Sadly as the cats have been gutted and are no longer present it suggests that the downstream sensors are mapped out

Yes, weak coil was exactly what I suspected - hence I rushed and bought some - I went down an initial blind alley with the wrong cylinder as I didn't look properly at the two cylinder numbering options! I also possibly need to run it longer to see if I get any other codes. The problem is, as...

Thanks Jim, I purchased a smoke tester last week and of course the cone was too small for the maf inlet which resulted in an unsatisfactory bodge with a ploy bag and gaffa tape - but did get me as far as leaky throttle body seals - which are hopefully fixed. Looking for a better smoke cone...