I fitted my 200 as a DI so much easyer.....used the std S3 rad.....bags of power still.....and a nice simple in keeping engine.

Cant see it helping. I have the wider 109 LWB type on my SWB....look better....and better with the wider 205x16s I have.

I see.....yes...there are head bolts and rocker bolts under the rocker cover.....they prob were referring to the head bolts.

Its actually a wading plug.....if you going in deep water....fit the plug.....keeps the water away from the clutch.....the bung is usualy screwed into a plate nearby.

With the rear diff out....you could always just select 4x4 high.....it will get you to the church and back then....on front wheel drive only.

With old type cross plys the steering should still run true.....and will be mega lighter than a Landrover on radials......but unfortunately cross plys are terrible on wet roads....steers straight no prob.....but will slide easy on bends ect. I fitted tubeless tyres to my std rims....lots will...

Why did you take of the head to sang the rocker shaft?????

I use stailess were I can....not suitable in some high stress areas.

Should be plenty of second ones about....yours is to far gone.....what the rest of the landrover like.....has it spent a lot of time around salt water?

Maybe I left the turbo on and didn't notice. Lets put it this way....it had a 2.25d with std lower ratio diffs and an over drive.....it now has a 200di.....high ratio diffs....sold the over drive as it no longer needed. Been in my LR 10 year plus....great....goes like a train....I suppose some...

As a DI it will be fine.....had a 200di in mine for over 10 years....its a SWB 88"....on a run close on 40mpg.....pulls like a train on 3.5 diffs....205x16 tyres. Un like glencoyne I modified my battery carrier so I could keep my battery under the bonnet....along side the oil bath air filter...

Why use 2nd....first is your pulling away gear.

All you can do is carry on....or strip it down.

Give them a try...see how they are....

If the water pump was goosed....it would still be goosed with out a stat fitted....and would get just as hot.

It will run cool....not good for the engine.

With out a laser temp gauge you have no idea how hot the engine is getting. If the stat is working correctly.....the engine will soon be hot after starting.....the top of the rad will get warm/first. And not the bottom till the stat opens at around 75C....thats hot....to hot to keep your hand...

A workshop manual is always a good start......thats how I got started.

Something wrong there.....I would say the speedo is out.....is it still on 600x16 tyres.....and it may be in high O/D or have a high ratio diff in at least the rear axle.

Just advance till it pinks....then retard.....if it has carbon....it still works....once the carbon is removed....you can prob advance a tad more......do you get the picture?