Thank you. I don’t know what the voltage is early morning, and the wife is using it today. If I leave the ignition on for just a few minutes, the ‘low battery start engine’ reliably appears. Battery fitted Dec 2018 (PO helpfully wrote on it) which I would consider brand new - my Def Td5 battery...

I spent about 5 hours on this yesterday with test light, multimeter, and GapIID. The actuator has permanent ground, ie is power-side switched. During the fault, no 12V appears on its connector. I traced the switched power wire to a large loom and there is no break in the wire. The ‘open...

I think I used a multimeter and an incandescent test light. I’ll check the rubber trunking - a simple thing I should have checked first!

Thanks. The only thing against that is that I found no 12V pulse to the actuator during the fault.

I’m now the proud owner of a GAP IID BT. Problem is still there. According to the IID app, the boot switch input goes ‘on’ when the switch is pressed, and the output also goes ‘on’ although the solenoid doesn’t always activate. This suggests to me something downstream of the ECU, perhaps a...

Car battery fitted 2018 so I hope it’s not goosed. Tried both fobs, same result. One has a new battery. I occasionally get a ‘smart key not found’ message on getting in the car, even though it starts fine. Lots of silly behaviour like this could add up to a duff main battery, I suppose...

2010 model. It’s the top door affected. Plenty of threads on here about it, and as a result I’ve found the following: The keyfob button doesn’t work either; sometimes a double beep is heard. Sometimes, switching ignition off and on and waiting will resolve it temporarily. The lock release...

I think it’s sorted. As I said before I pulled a bit harder on the emergency release and it popped free. I left the EPB fuse out overnight. Replaced it this morning and used the iCarsoft i930: Service menu —> EPB —> drive to latching position. Nothing much happened. Service menu —> EPB —>...

Can this be done with an icarsoft i930? In the service menu, it has something about mount/disengage/unjam. Or is it part of the main diagnostic menu? I’ve looked up adjusting the brake shoes, so will do that before anything else.

Thanks - turns out I wasn’t pulling hard enough on the release cable! It needs a real heave but I didn’t want to break anything. Brakes are released, and I’ve taken the EPB fuse out. The MoT is booked for this week, so I might have to give in and take it in to the local 4x4 place. Unlikely I’ll...

Handbrake made a huge screeching sound and won’t disengage - EPB fault indicated. Following some advice, I tried releasing with the cable - no luck. Then used my iCarsoft to unjam/engage/release - it makes noises but won’t release. I can’t get the discs off or turn the wheels to the adjuster...

It might still be available. The winning bidder was ‘not uk-based’, shall we say, and sent a message asking for more photos after the auction ended. I sent them, but he claimed they hadn’t been sent and cancelled the sale. Why you would want more photos after you’ve committed to the sale I can’t...

Turbine inlet valve = actuator? Didn’t know that. It was being used before I bought it - when the fault occurred, it was climbing a hill so perhaps the actuator was moved more open than it had been in a while, and stuck temporarily.

A dirty MAF normally underfuels. Before replacing the MAF, do an unplug test. This site is littered with threads about throwing sensors at a problem and wasting lots of money.

By your calculations, your MAF might be overestimating the airflow, hence overfuelling.

Try google for typical readings, but if the MAF is suspected then unplugging it and test driving may be worth trying.

Edited title in case it rings a few bells... Deleted fault codes, MIL went off, did a long journey yesterday and no return of fault. It might come back to haunt me later, so if anyone has ideas, let me know.

The battery is buggered. You might revive it somewhat with an intelligent charger in ‘recon’ mode, but the end is nigh. It’s also a lot of strain on the alternator, charging up a flat battery, so I would go for a bench charge rather than driving about.

Can you recommend a good one? I’ve never owned one, but have known many crap ones, usually Ring or Maypole. Typically, they sit there ‘just in case’, then when the owner goes to use them they fail, with an output below 7.5V, then the battery inside puffs up and they get thrown away.

The problem, as far as I know, is modern alternators. Once you’ve jumped the dead car, and the two are still connected, the good car’s alternator is putting out full whack to charge the dead car’s battery. If you disconnect at this point, the good car’s electrical system will see a sudden drop...