As rimmer say's . . . . .and no they will run like this [Ming test] with ignition on [dont start engine] pump should run for tween 10- 30 seconds and stop , if it keeps running then its A = FUEL LEAK B= HIGH FUEL PRESSURE SENSOR FOOKED C= FUEL PUMP RELAY JAMMED [OR ELECTRICAL FAULT .NOT...

No very bad idea [dont do it] . . . . .the filler is on rhs front of engine compartment look down to see it ,you will need an an adaptor to fill it, i used the adaptor end of a silicone cartridge and a bit of garden water hose. . . . . .but i'm clever and a rockit injunear :)

yes correct i modded it about a year ago but only cos i could not be bothered to change the motor[and encode] lazy bastid. . . . . stupid thing was the window has worked without fail since i did it:o i keep meaning to put the mod up but have been reluctant as many missdiagnose tail gate faults...

vacuum test to the master first :)

its normal ,dont worry , slight tight vcu , check out tipex test [its a basic rule of thumb test] but me i would not bother :) :) :) you will only fret.

Oh thats all good then, only i know it gets boring on this forum harping on about basic checks first ,but you will be surprised how many dive in too deep cos some bod on a phooter pulls there pants down , but in your case you've done the basics first, well done Earthling :) so yes leak off test...

yes was thinking that as well ,also i have seen the turbo hoses collapse on the inside but appear fine from outside . . . . .

sound like kessi was saying ,master cylinder , or vacuum to it :)

normally if its a LP pump or pumps then you will get a mill light warning or go into limp home mode , its best to make sure the pumps are delivering correct fuel before looking at hp pump or even injectors ,not forgetting the simple clogged up fuel filter . . . . . .

sounds very much like the window motor encoder is fooked [its all part of the motor] sometimes if you disconnect battery and reconnect [make sure you have radio code] you will be able to open it , but the fault can be intermittent and so is likely to return , its a stupid design and only cure is...

yup flops :) :) :)

Was gunna do a write up about the mith of the doors fallin orft wen wet. . . . . . . .but its raining and young Porky[eeze er furra bread] jist teld me one ah ma friggin doors just fell orft :(

Did the tail gate window drive down on reconnection of batterie ?. . . . .

remove and chock up front rh wheel ,remove plastic cowel , locate tension nut using a long reach spanner ,pull down on tensioner clockwise ,then lock spanner by using large mole grips on sub frame to lock spanner hence leaving hands free to fit the belt in correct position when happy release...

its the stoopid encoder in the motor . . . . . .so disconnect battery [make sure you have radio code] leave disconnect fer bout 30 secs and reconnect [tailgate window should drop fully open] will be able to open door at this point close door and manually drive it up fully and try again, if it...

its the tail gate motor well not the actual motor but the count segments [a kind of crude encoder] its fitted in the motor gearbox so you need to change the whole lot [its a right pain]

Or its the silly drop down glitch fing in the tail gate motor or the door pull handle is fooked . . . . . .try the window re calibrate first as this might help eliminate a few things :) :) :)

Think a lot are missing the point of the synergy. . . .Rover Ron did the initial work into the crap BMW maf sensor drifting outa spec his gismo kicks it back to a correction ,go on his website and have a good read , now you can go out and spend yer dosh on say a remap or some fangled gismo , but...

Its a real **** design . . . .in your case and mine its the motor, well not the actual motor :) the motor unit has segment proxisters that sends a signal to the phooter ,that way it can measure lenth , and when it gets to the top needs to know if door is open or shut to add on or orft its silly...

or just put some gold fish in the cubby hole. . . . . . .ppps dont get the doors wet :eek: :eek: :eek: