Just curious as to why ? Surely if you keep an eye on temp & fit a switch to activate the fan at a certain temp it will be fine ? I thought the TD5 engines run quite cool anyway & that you can leave the viscuous fan off for most of the year without any overheating issues ? I'm just asking as I...

When you start a post there is a section above right for posting pics. If you get stuck there is a "posting pictures for dummies guide" on here if you do a search. Dan.

Given up whilst got a set of depinning pins on order. I tried thin tweezers & small slim flat head screwdrivers as well as pointed tweezers to no avail + I think it would help if you were a master of YOGA & could manage every position in the karma sutra, what with the awkward contortionism...

sounds good. Post some pics of your install up.# Dan.

Have to go out for a couple of hours, but I have removed the trim & located the r/b wire to be removed from the female plug when I get back. Once I have it removed (hopefully its not to much of a pain to unpin as Ive never done one before) I will plug it back together put a new fuse in and see...

Ok gotcha, will give that a go today. Dan.

Going to have a go tomorrow morning at unpinning the connector you mentioned.It was my better halfs birthday today and my nieces tomorrow so I havent had chance to have a play yet. Once unpinned whats the next step ?

Ok I think I may try to unpin the connector sierraferry was talking about as that should narrow the problem to either the front or rear. Dan

In your pic, did you have to unwrap the wiring ? As I don't really want to unwrap all of the tape the wiring is within for no reason. I just wondered if yours was already unwrapped & hanging loose, hence the cause of your wires being able to move & rub through. If yours rubbed through though...

Will do, as hopefully it will help someone else in the future whilst looking for an answer to their problem.

I'll replace the 38mm festoon number plate bulbs as soon as I get more. Mine aren't led & I'm not convinced that will sort it anyway, but I do need to replace these for the mot anyway. Thanks for the suggestion though as it may work. Dan

thats what I figured would be the most logical place to check, where there is frequent movement of the loom, just didn't know if the other set of wires went near the door actuator or somewhere else where it may get trapped or flexed.

I did as sierra ferry suggested and pulled the trim to rear door & unplug the wiring. I assume as there is only two wires (black&red) going up to the bulb holders the other loops in and out to the next one along ? as I could not see where the other wires went. Whereabouts did yours short out...

I did think of that possibility & I`ll try to get a couple of bulbs to try it out and rule that scenario out. Got a feeling its going to be wiring along the chassis, as I did melt one of the compressor pipes that go to the rear of the vehicle (whilst welding rear body mount I had a fire blanket...

Will see if I can do that when I get home (I look after the kids whilst the other half works in the evening). Both the rear number plate bulbs had blown too, so I need to replace those as well. Dan

Right it still pops the fuse with both front & rear lamp units unplugged, so its pointing to a wire shorting out then. I will try to investigate as & when I can. Dan

Will try that tonight and report back. I`ll also try to check the wiring along the chassis in case I have caught anything whilst doing the chassis preservation work. Dan.

disconnected the front headlight multiplug & put a new fuse in & its blown again after switching the column switch on. Dan

I will give that a try in the morning, when I can see what I`m doing & report back. Dan.

The front sidelight bulb holder ? I can trace it back & see if it can be unplugged, although I didnt see anywhere that was possible to unplug from after removing the bulb. Sorry for the delay in replying as I`m laying new flooring in the loft room, after moving the water tanks & changing to a...