Well mine does it if parked on curb for example... you hear the compressor run for maybe 1-2 seconds, might do 2 -3 times then stops.. My last D2 which was a facelift version did the same Nige

good call Nige

Awesome, ACE was already disconnected when i got it .. I should remove this then and all the ace pipes etc... what about the actuators on each axle, do people usually leave them on or take them off also? just seem extra weight for nothing. Nige

Nope mine are fine but i am missing a bump stop :confused: Noticed this is leaking slightly, no idea what it is but it looks nice lol..

is it part of the fuel system?.. located on the O/S chassis under the B pillar... as you can see its leaking slightly so needs sorting.. would it be easier to repair or replace? once i know what it is of course Nige

better check mine lol.. Nige

Mine does it to, when parked on uneven ground, only does it for a moment then stops.. Really don't think its anything to worry about Nige

I just adjusted the Steering box adjuster by 1/4 turn as recommended and that has made a huge difference.. the play in the drag link is now hardly noticeable on the road.. when the new drag link end is fitted the steering will be like new.. :) already feels like a completely different landy.. Nige

Perfect, I have now ordered the correct part using your part numbers... Love this forum

Ok it seems i'm a bit dim... of course the track rod ends would be LH & RH threads, but the main reason I'm Dim is its the Drag Link end that needs replacing.. anyway same question (risking further dimness) guessing this is RH both ends but just need confirmation.. the end that's gone is where...

Stearing on my 2001 D2 is vague and wonders a little.. checking it there were 2 problems, UJ that tightens onto the splin shaft of the stearing box was loose, tightened this and all good there now and has fixed some of the issue, but there is one of the track rod ends N/S that is worn.. so i...

Look forward to reading it :)

@flat & @meego Kind words and I thank you... To be honest I'm really enjoying the project.. just hope it's of interest.. Nige

Made some more progress today.. First tackled the badly corroded lower rear section, cutting out the bad area and making a new piece to weld in. Next I tack welded the new section in place, riveted to the side panel before fully welding it on the out side and stitch welding the inside.. The...

If you show them the picture in your link they will be able to sort you the correct regulator. It should be a 5/8" BSP like this one on fleebay https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F142305947266

Next instalment and it's time to tackle the badly damaged outer panel.. It appears to have been in a bump at some point and a previous owner has used huge amounts of filler paste to try and repair the damage, it was a right mess.. worse was the corrosion on the edges where the panel rivets to...

Settings used for this particular project were as follows.. Welder 160 amp AC/DC TIG 2.4mm Thoriated Tungsten Tip (Thoriated "Red" works better on ali that zirconiated "white" when welding with an inverter type welder) AC balance set to 35% cleaning, or 35% Electrode Positive (depending how...

Hi Resto.. Make sure you get CO2 Argon mix gas not CO2 on its own as this produces messy welds with lots of spatter.. I will be doing a short "How to" video covering techniques for welding thin metal i.e. 1.2 mm mild steel.. the area you are welding wants to be a clean as possible, bare shiny...

ooh our steam mop has detachable steam bit thingy,, might try that.... will take longer that a full one jobby but it pumps out a fair bit of steam... just have to sneak it past the missus :confused: Nige

no nothing specific but want to know if all is well.. :)