Have a good read of this thread, especially the posts by @300bhp/ton, a well known and knowledgeable off-roader:- https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/lifting-a-d2-properly.300573/#post-3749057 Added to which, a stock D2 on SLS already has the ability to increase the suspension height by about...

I've not done this actual job, but other changes which I have made to some settings with a Nanocom usually requires a "two step process". First you have to "write" the new values into the Nanocom and then you need to "save" those values to the ECU. Just writing them won't alter what's already in...

Earth straps and connections can be troublesome in older vehicles. The connections start to rust or oxidise which can start them failing. I'm not a fan of high current circuits using the body or chassis for an earth return. A fresh heavy duty lead added between the battery negative and the...

+1 for a diagnostic code reader, but it has to be a compatible device. The diesel Disco 2 isn't fully compliant with OBDII protocols so many of the cheaper devices just won't work, they'll just be a waste of money. There's nothing different about your fault symptoms, the 3 amigos are usually...

When was the last time that the gearbox and T-box oils were changed? The manual gearbox on the Disco 2 can be a bit temperamental about its oil.

Take somebody who knows Defenders with you when you look at any prospective purchase, if possible. The Td5 engine is pretty good, provided it's looked after. It will repay you when it's regularly serviced. As others have advised, try to get a good feel for them before you buy. And your old...

Checked my windscreen wipers a couple of days ago, what with the forecast of heavy rain from "Storm Callum" and found that they were starting to split at the ends so I ordered a new set which arrived this morning ...... just in time for me to say to myself, "Not in this *$^&%" weather, I'll...

Whenever a Td5 engine starts misbehaving for no apparent reason, the first thing to check for is oil in the red plug on the engine ECU. It's a quick check and if it's clear then you're going to have to start looking elsewhere. If there are oil traces there then it's going to mean a replacement...

You could try the EKA ...... if you have it. Try replacing the battery in the fob too. If you have a second fob, does that one work? @neilly's excellent work on the security system on the D2 can be found at:- https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/handy-buying-alarm-info.311291/

Judging by the google pictures I would say that you are quite correct in your assumption. It looks like it's an immobiliser originally for the 'fender but could also be used on the 300tdi Disco 1. Looking at some of the scant information on the web I'd say that the receiver unit connects somehow...

I have heard some members say that they eliminated the squeal by changing the drive belt for a different make. I take it you have replaced the belt tensioner too.

You asked about this device a couple of days ago on the General board and received no reply there either. I would suggest that even though the packaging does carry the LR logo it's some kind of aftermarket device. Maybe if you took yourself along to a Land Rover Main stealer and asked them you...

Then your next job is to find out why the fob isn't working. The radio receiver for the central locking is behind the roof lining, just in front of the rear sunroof.

Earthing through the chassis/body/frame isn't a good idea as time goes by, especially in higher power circuits. Connections can corrode or oxidise leading to poor connections or even complete failure. Flat braided cable is better for the connection between the chassis or body and the engine...

Checks as @Paul D has advised. The glow plugs are quite a heavy electrical load, so you can expect the battery volts to drop slightly while they're activated. Unlike the D2 where the glow plug circuit is controlled by coolant temperature through the engine ECU, the Disco 1 uses a plain old timer...

They also really love to dine on wiring insulation, so be prepared for unusual electrical behaviour, as if there isn't enough elastictrickery on the D2 already.

Last time I went to York on a train it was a nightmare. Crowded carriages, took longer to get there than by road and as for the "coffee", I drained better than that out of an old engine.

Them pesky meeces get everywhere!

I shouldn't think so. As I understand it the double joint is required because of the large angle needed to connect the output shaft of the T-box to the front axle. The angle becomes even more acute as the body lifts, either intentionally or as a result of normal suspension action.

"Cunifer" is the name given to an alloy of copper, nickel and iron. It's often used for brake lines, and sometimes fuel lines because it's almost totally corrosion proof and almost as easy to work with as steel lines. I would advise you to use a proper kit of tools if you intend to make your...