+1 ^^^^ I'd definitely get the charging circuit on the vehicle checked out. A quick check with a voltmeter connected directly across the battery should show a voltage of about 14.5 volts with the engine running just above tickover.

As @swatts70 has said and as I have done, permanent wiring will do. Once the mod has been done, the chances of having to remove the switch plate ever again are reduced to negligable. Regarding the gauge of wire, 0.5 sq mm will do, The lowest value of resistance in the shuttle valve switch...

Here you go, put this on a sign in the front windscreen as you arrive next time you go for a "Wash and a Polish":- Nie spryskuj wody dużą czarną rurą przy przedniej szybie Google is your friend! :D

+1 ^^^^ It is often recommended that the battery is disconnected before you disconnect either ride height sensor. There have been cases of the SLABS ECU "forgetting" the height sensor data if the battery isn't disconnected. I don't know whether it's actually true or not, but it's better to be...

+1 ^^^^^ Use a pan scourer or fine wire wool on the stubborn bits. Treat it with some leather balm when it's dried.

OK, so you're running on BP fuel, would that be BP petrol or BP diesel fuel?

As has already been suggested, the nicest way of getting the "something extra" out of the Td5 engine would be a remap of the ECU. DO NOT opt for those "bolt-on, go faster" boxes, all they will probably do is increase your fuel bill. Many owners here on the forum have had good results from Mike...

Depending on exactly what was done when the clutch was done. Personally if I was to go to the trouble of pulling the gearbox out for whatever reason, I would also replace everything I could see while I was inside the bellhousing, from the DMF flywheel, clutch assembly and friction plate, thrust...

A battery voltage of 10 volts while the engine is cranking isn't going to help the ECU. You need at least 10.5 volts for the ECU to trigger the injectors. The low voltage could probably be the final cause of the failure to start, but the cause of the low voltage must be found and corrected...

I'd agree that the immobiliser shouldn't discharge a good battery that quickly. I'd suggest that you have the condition of the battery tested and replace it if it's found necessary. You might also have some other "current drain" issues going on too, which is also worth checking.

IPA is a good degreaser and should be suitable for the job you want to do. There should be no problems with application using a soft brush such as a clean paintbrush. Ease out the white insert from the red plug to clean inside there too. IPA shouldn't attack the plastic of the plug. The use of...

D2 facelift headlights are still at risk in some areas of the country too, but there were some aftermarket security fittings available in days gone by. Regarding the camera and the glare off the villain's brake lights, most CCD photographic elements are extremely "red sensitive". That's why...

Would that be before or after their "few handy debt collectors" have had a "word" with the three miscreants?

I don't understand you saying that the wastegate moves very freely. My understanding of the device is that there's a strong spring in the vacuum chamber and to get it to move when doing static tests you need to grip the actuating pin pretty tightly with say, a pair of "mole grips" and when I...

From looking at the drawings, I would surmise that there was no actual "sub-woofer" or Bass output from the head unit. The audio outputs from the head were just the normal front/back, right/left outputs which were fed to the power amplifier. The low frequency filtering and amplification was then...

The tailgate speakers are driven from the Harmon power amplifier under the front passenger's seat, not from the head unit.

The Td5 has glow plugs in four of the five cylinders which are controlled by the engine ECU, via a relay. Unlike the 300tdi engine, the Td5 system measures the temperature of the coolant and powers the glowplugs for a suitable period; the colder it is, the longer the glow plugs are powered. The...

I don't see how changing from electric to manual sunroofs is going to fix the leaks. From what I understand of the sunroof assemblies, you're going to have to get the headlining out to do any kind of major work on them so you might as well just fix the leaks while you have the chance. In most...

If its any help, I connect mine to the tyre first then start the compressor. When finished, I do the reverse, stop the compressor then disconnect from the tyre. The screw-on valve connector is a bit fiddly but you'll soon get used to it.

Yep, you've got it! That's the method for not just the top and bottom ball joints, but any taper joint. Remember, don't just tickle it, think of how much trouble it's already given you and punish it with a damned good clout.