Alternatively try and sound the area, long screwdriver held to your ear and have someone start it, touch the screwdriver to different engine/ part areas and you may be able to pin point the area, back, top, intake, front etc. that will help narrow where they noise is.

Is it a fast rattle? Could be timing chain guides worn, that engine can have that issue.

Looks like it could do with a new one 🤣

Managed to change the upper hub bushes, weather turned but carried on, was quite easy, give them a good wack with big hammer to crack any rust. Lower ones to do when I get another fine day. Already most of the creaking has gone and feels much tighter on the road. Old ones had seen better days!

Not had mine pull through yet on my td6 but must be ok borrowed time as the bottom edge of the back plate isn’t too clever so corrosion must be working it’s way up there, least it’s an easy bodge that’s probably better than the factory idea.

Use it more than just weekends and they seem to be more reliable.

That’s my view, they are such power hungry especially on start up, when everything else is starting just not enough juice to go round, for cost of a new battery put one on then worry about it after. Least then you’ll have no issue with no start due to old flat battery etc.

Absolutely, all RR are power hungry especially when starting and all the systems and modules need power, slight drop causes all sorts. That’s what my gearbox place said, keep them serviced and there not bad, he also said the gm and 5sp zf are much cheaper to fix, c.£2000 on a gm box for rebuild...

Bit better but still have issues, my local gearbox place says the gm box is actually better but let down by its torque converter, if that didn’t fail and cause abrasive oil then the gearbox wouldn’t have the issue it does. He did give a list of issues with the five speed zf but can’t recall...

Not to bad then, probably one of them jobs that’s looks a pain but not too bad when your in there.

Looks a bit of a mission! Think I’d have put up with wheel not moving, long as it still moves to change direction for the car… that could get interesting at the first bend 🤣

Never used pagid, other cars iv had iv used mintex or ferodo, tried britpart xs as there meant to be good quite cheap too but they were noisy, ok under very light braking but heavy used to just grind, nothing wrong with the fit, price, performance, not much dust either but think that’s the...

What a strange thing to do, air to coils, not like it’s uncomfortable on air, and if it goes wrong it’s not exactly mega money to repair, Maby couple of hundred for compressor or £300 a corner for a front strut etc.

Replaced front pads as the britpart xs were to hard and grindy under heavy braking so got Delphi fitted, replaced front drivers abs sensor, ended up drilling the old one out.

Update, fitted new abs sensor today and been for a drive and upto now all good, so does look to be sensor, also the click/ clunk has gone when on brake so wondering if that was the abs giving one or two pulses due to bad readings from the failing sensor, old one the screw came out lovely but...

Well new sensor arrived today was hoping to fit it but done nothing but rain so hopefully tomorrow it’s fine and new sensor and front pads as the others seemed a hard compound, not much dust generated and very grindy, so new Delphi pads since wheels will be off then start on rear hub bushes.

Steering wheel is slightly off, this is tracking but is booked in to be sorted when I get new tyres but not hit any high kerbs lately etc and steering has been like this since iv owned it, soon as I set off abs kicks in on brakes, (quite scary as it doesn’t want to stop) then warning bongs up...

Forgot to say my test was done up and down the driveway so Maby the sensor drops out at higher speeds. I have noticed it takes a couple of mins to bong up with warning lights after setting off.

Hi guy’s recently noticed abs kicking in as soon as you set off, called my mechanic to look at a job he wants done and asked him to scan it, showed up front right speed sensor, sometimes it clears otherwise it brings up usual Xmas tree of lights hdc inactive etc turns off abs and all is well...

Would you consider a full size RR? Quite often in better condition/ less thrashed and often cheaper. However from people’s experience and speaking to mechanics etc the general view is a L322 is more reliable and easier to work on than a sport.