Do you have a picture? The TD5 has a spacer then a single large stake nut which replaces the old two lock nuts that were used before. The stake nut will be 52mm

Send it back and buy an Elring gasket

Where do you sell them? Do you have a website or phone number? And what's the cost for one of the above including shipping?

Just buy some cheap second hand bench seats, far better than a cushion and can at least fold away

As far as I'm aware it only needs lap belts if originally fitted. If they're fitted then they will be tested during an MOT, if not then they can't be tested. Never heard of anyone failing an mot for lack of belts in an old series for example but a defender may be a different story

Yes and no

Sounds more like the box than the pump. If you're getting fluid then the pumps still working to get that fluid there but the fact that nothing is coming out when you turn right points more to an issue with the steering box than the pump itself I reckon

I've not long rebuilt the left hub as it badly needed it, the right hand side is next when I get the cash so that'll no doubt be just as shot. My rear shocks including the bushes are fairly new (few months old) and they're good quality Monroes so hopefully I can rule that out. Will need to...

I've been looking at the fully galv ones SP4x4 do but there's also a guy called Mosside Land Rovers based in NI that makes his own and they look pretty good quality. Haven't been able to get a hold of him to find out a cost though https://www.facebook.com/mosside.rovers?refsrc=deprecated&_rdr

Sounds like a wheel bearing on its way out

I removed the clutch assembly entirely and reset the adjuster nuts as per Britannica Restorations video, I then gravity bled the clutch as per another video of his (very handy to learn!). I now have actual free play in the pedal as I should do, the valves are fully open and properly closed when...

I've no problem with where the biting point is as I'm used to it. Going to pop out just now and try and bleed it and see if I get any air out then nip up all the nuts if that's the case

Those will adjust the free play, that shouldn't have an effect on biting point. Can't mind the parts I had fitted to mine but I supplied them to the garage. Sure they were decent mind you. A friend of mine looked up the problem without specifying land rover and it seems that it could possibly be...

How were you able to adjust the biting point? I thought that was pretty much fixed. Mine has been near the top of the pedal travel ever since the clutch was done a wee while ago

Wonder if anyone would know the potential cause of this. When driving over rough or rutted terrain (which I don't do very often) I get a very noticeable clunking from and through the steering wheel. Nothing of the sort when driving on normal roads and the steering damper isn't particularly old...

I can't remember off the top of my head what type was fitted when I had the clutch done. Still not sure why it's doing this when warm as it just seemed to start out of the blue and had been running absolutely fine beforehand

Update on this - the pedal has the correct amount of freeplay when I first start driving and it seems to be when the vehicle (and the clutch) warms up it becomes quite hard and there's no freeplay whatsoever, I can press the clutch slightly while driving and can tell that it's disengaging the...

Cheers, I do watch his videos but I'll have a go again at sorting out the adjustment nuts. Access is a pain when the pedal box is already fitted but I'd rather that than take it out and have to rebleed it again

Haven't taken the return spring off but the pedals not stiff or jammed in any way, it was just quite hard rather than not pivoting properly. The return spring could do with an oil as its started squeaking when coming off the pedal though

Is anyone able to further advise on properly adjusting my clutch pedal. My biting point has been near enough at the top since I got the clutch replaced a few years ago and since then I've fitted a new slave cylinder and a new master cylinder. I've read the LR workshop manual on correctly...