Front hub tutorial here http://www.discovery2.co.uk/fronthub.html says the front is 32 mm but if I remember correctly the replacement hub nut I bought was a different size. You will need a big breaker bar to undo it, I ended up buying a 3/4 drive socket set. Not sure if the rear is the same as...

According to Rave yes you do need to remove the intercooler. I'd also invest in a pair of hose clip pliers if you haven't already got one. Be careful of the little spigot on the top nearside of the radiator - it's easy to snap it

Tutorial here http://www.discovery2.co.uk/fronthub.html When I did mine I broke a 1/2" drive breaker bar and torque wrench undoing the hub nut, borrowed a 3/4" socket set which did the job, I've now bought a set for myself. Agree with Disco DJ about the parts and tools to get. First side took a...

I bought the new OEM bushes from LR Series. I didn't replace the two outer bushes on the axle end links as they weren't worn. Depending on what gear you have available you may find it easier to remove the whole Watts linkage, get the old bushes out and then get the new ones pressed in by a local...

Sounds like the Watts linkage to me - have a read here

I use Harris Mayes in Rickmansworth for stuff I can't do myself - not sure if this is too far for you or not...

Could be this oil pipe click here

Took it for its MOT - and passed

Drove it from Ruislip to Cheshire on Friday and back on Saturday, towing the horse trailer - never missed a beat apart from the red ACE light coming on when crawling slowly in traffic. Turn the ignition off and on again and the light and bells went away.

Could be the Electronic Brake Distribution valve? From Rave: Operation of EBD is detectable from a stiffening of brake pedal movement as the inlet solenoid valves close and a slight pulsing of the brake pedal as the inlet solenoid valves open. EBD operation ceases immediately the brake pedal is...

My old 4 1/2 Black and Decker stopped working recently - a new switch and some brushes and it is all good again

Unfortunately nowhere around here that I know of. Mine mainly gets used for towing horse and Scout trailers with just the odd adventure on a campsite or pony club field.

I'm in Ruislip so not far from Watford and Heathrow.

Yes I plan to get the tracking checked - I'd measured the new and old lengths of both the drag link and the track rod assemblies to it's pretty close but probably still needs tweaking.

No - went with OEM ones in the end, needed to get it fixed sooner rather than later and the local indy dealer had them in stock

Changed my drag link and track rod today, just need to centralise the steering now.

Changed both drag link and track rod today, two of the joints came off easily. I had to grind one of the others off and drill through the last one to get a pin in to hold it still whilst I undid the bolt. It drives a lot better, I just need to centralise the steering wheel now - job for tomorrow...

Ok, been reading up a bit more; how do I check the radius arm bushes please?

Like this you mean? Link Good call, thank you.

Thanks Ratty. On one end of the rods the ball joint is removable, the other end is fixed or pressed on to the main arm so I'll have to replace the whole unit. They're about £50 each for the whole assembly.