Down in the West Country for me. So absolutely no snow, just wet.

Had a bulb on the dash cluster fail on me, so pulled that out, changed the bulb.. same side is out. Great. Pulled it out again and swapped the lamp holders around and again, same side is out. I’m assuming that the solder tracks on the PCB have failed and the only remedy is a replacement cluster?

On the subject of lights.. First day of actually needing them to drive home, RH Dipped beam failure flashed up on the dash.. of course. Thankfully the spare I keep in the glove box came in clutch and saved the day, however this leads me on to what to replace them with? I did have some...

Thought I’d give an update on this. So not only did the static idler bearing fail, garage reckons the reason for that failing was the tensioner wasn’t tensioning any more. A new bracket, bearing and tensioner later, I’ve got the car back and its working lovely!

Does the L322 have the window feature where if you press and hold the unlock button windows will go down? Might be a case of something inadvertently pressed the unlock button on the fob for a bit and caused this

I did that and turns out the road tyres I had were just very loud..

If you’re already looking to run the phono leads from the head unit you’re probably better off running a dedicated 12v power cable from the battery at the same time. Most subs/audio kits will have one with an inline fuse built in, you’d then have a switched live cable from the stereo so it’s not...

Yup! That’s the one!

I don’t think it’s the one that applies tension. It’s near the top to the left of the alternator as you’re looking at the car. Still, it’s a hell of a lot cheaper than I was first expecting when it happened 😂

Quick update: RAC arrived in record time to assess, it’s a belt pulley - not 100% what it’s attached to but doesn’t appear to be the PAS pump

Stopped off at Coop to grab some lunch, go to pull out on the main road and I can’t turn the steering wheel. Great. So some context: After the MOT, the next day I was driving home from work and noticed a slight rattle/scrape noise occasionally. Wasn’t present yesterday at all. This morning I...

I’ve already had to turn on sensor into a liquid to replace it so I’m well versed in the ABS sensors. Thanks for a link to the tools, I’ll take a look at Euro Car Parts to see what I can get.

Would you mind pointing me in the right direction for the tools?

MOT for the P38 today. Needed a new track rod ball joint as the play in the OS front wheel turned out to be that and not the bearing, phew! Once that was fitted and tested only one advisory was a lower suspension arm ball joint dust cover which when I asked about they advised to wait until it’s...

Seems optimistic.. is that considered low mileage even? Given the seller has done the bare minimum in the listing as well.

I’m hoping they’ll have accounted for that as well!

It’s definitely side to side play. I’ll give it another look then to see. Reason I suspected bearing is I have no record of them being changed in the paperwork I have and it’s just ticked over 170k miles, I also got an occasional drone around the 60mph mark which appeared intermittently.

Got the P38 up on the jacks to start replacing air bags.. front OS wheel has a significant knock/play on the side to side. So that’s a wheel bearing/hub assembly need doing. Just phoned the local garage who know the car, £380+VAT. Throw an MOT on top as well, there’s a healthy £500 as well as...

That’s my worry. I’ll no doubt post an update once I’ve dug deep. Doing various reading online it does seem like it’s a likely cause.

Drove from my place in Somerset to Cardiff.. or at least I would have if an EAS fault hadn’t shown itself just outside of Newport. Managed to get off the M4 into a residential street with some free parking while it sat on its bumpstops. Bugger. No worries, I’ve got the OBD cable in the glove...