When cranking do you hear a regular intermittent lower in speed as each cylinder gets to full compression or does it miss any out? Missed would indicate a drop in compression.

Running it in the dark and using a torch to see the smoke may help locate it. Is it deffo leaking?

Are you travelling at 88mph with1.2gigawatts of power, Marty? As the clock is standalone I'd say best bet to replace with second hand one.

with a diagnostic tool read live data for turbo commanded and actual turbo values, should be the same figures or a bit more for actual. I can read these on another vehicle using clone elm237 with app on phone.

That feeling driving it home in clouds of smoke! Thinking the worst has happened. Glad it got fixed.

Poss a split pipe, there is a one that is prone to failing somewhere. Have a search on here for its location.

If you get live data from the pedal then no point checking the connection that sends the readings to ecu.

Does live data show an input from the accelerator? Do you get a voltage increase at the battery when running, to check the alternator. Is the battery in peak condition, apparently needed for the fl2 or random issues happen.

What about after market ecu? Something you can set up yourself and tweak on rolling road if necessary. Accelerator input could either use existing if it works or new pedal that matches ok. Could be worth looking at the kit car setups.

Has it lost all the fluid? Master cylinder can fail by not pushing the fluid pressure to slave through internal seals.

Thanks, gives us all a better understanding and possible ways to help. I've heard of an instance where someone sent cctv footage to insurance company to help after a theft only for the insurance company to cancel the claim because of the lights not flashing, showing it was unlocked. Personally...

Does the FL2 have keyless entry? That would be the first requirement for a relay attack. Can the FL2 be started with the wrong key / no key in the slot but with the correct (or relayed key) present? Do you know if the 50 mile drive was one trip, as once started by a relay attack the car will run...

need and want are totally different!

As long as one set of lights are within the right height, which is quite a range, it would be ok. Depends on use, permanent or not as to how to wire. But as said like for like. For one set to be removable splice a socket into existing wiring on the trailer for the extra light board.

Glow plug light only comes on when cold outside, don't know if the glow plugs get any power in warm days to assist starting though.

By changing engine type will it loose its historic status?

Can you check the cam timing for a slipped belt? If you have an oscilloscope on the battery you can check for a rough evenness of the compression of the cylinders.

Is it genuine mileage?? I would say go with the feeling. Does it sound ok? Do you think it's had regular oil changes? A car half the mileage can give issues so if the price is right then I'd give it a go.

So you have a smaller size,mate wants one

Captive bolts can break, common with other vehicles and I'm sure your mechanic could either fix by getting to the back of it or google an answer. If it's spinning then you could grip the bolt (or weld something to hold it with) and cut it off so the captive part falls away, then use a long drill...