Did you turn the engine over first with a spanner on the crank pulley? Did you feel regular compression for each cylinder?

You can connect a 12v supply with jump leads to maintain voltage to the car. I have seen some that plug into the cigarette lighter.

Get a code reader that can give live figures and it will give you the dpf in and out pressure. Should be virtually the same. That would give you an indication of if it is even clogging up.

You left your mom in tescos car park, that's you off the Christmas list.

On a rover I didn't oil the threads. If recommended then maybe engine oil. I think in the engine it's open so the oil won't give false torque readings. I don't know if it is the heat that affects the head or just it being bolted down and removed. I'm sure I saw the recommendation to always...

If you mean the pipe from abs to rear then it's doable but a bit of a pain due to the length. Just follow original and make sure your ends are made off good. Pain getting to the abs pump as someone put a dirty great engine in the way.

When cranking it should be an even drop in speed as each cylinder has compression. Any change in the rhythm would indicate a loss of compression which may be due to timing chain being out.

Blinking light means the alarm activated, or if when you open the door it beeps it could be a low fob battery. Until you get it running don't replace the battery. You need to work smart, there's plenty of advice and repair procedures on this site alone. Code reader would be an advantage so you...

Dmgrs have a good deal of info on the head gasket. I think a head skim is definate

Its worth changing the little pins that hold the shoes in place as well as they rust and may fail. this kind of thing ebay link

Do you have any excess to come off that figure? I'd also do a insurance check with go compare with the claim on to see how much it alters.

As above, it won't just push in. Needs a sharp knock to spring it in. Like when it came out, all of a sudden with a sharp pull.

If taking to a garage use one that is very good with the auto boxes. May cost a bit extra but then you'll get a proper diagnosis. Your location may help for any member reccomendations.

To hold more water and rust them away.

Or if the belt is intact it may be out of alignment. When turning over it may regularly go a bit faster if there's no compression.

Is it not worth it to get the engine reconditioned? As said earlier you know the history of the car.

Earlier freelanders had a different front to rear ratio, that my have been achieved by using different rear diffs. If so I would be fitting the later diff.

Halfords were cheaper for drop links by a fiver compared to euro car parts. That was before trade card discount. Check your part number with advanced factors we site.

The same sort of clunk? Diff mount tends to clunk just on acceleration or when you take your foot off the accelerator as the diff initially gets or looses power.

I routed the USB into the glove box, as I don't tend to keep gloves in there.