Anyone know if this guy in the centee is supposed to look so chewed up? Looks like someone has gone to town with a screwdriver. Can't be right, can it?

I'd just kill myself. Struggled enough working around the RR engine bay.

Sprayed the pump with leak detector. Think I know where the problem is. Seems to be QA and the head... maybe. For a big engine bay, it is so cramped in here.

I ordered the special tool for the security bolt, so that's not a concern. It is an expensive tool for what will be one time use item, but it seemed easier than trying to source a replacement bolt.

I am hoping that is all I have to do. I plundered some leak detector spray from work, so I can clean up the area, spray it down and then run round the block. Hopefully it is just to lid that is leaking so I don't have to play with the QA block or touch the rear "head" seal. Though I did take...

Have to bite the bullet and attempt the FIP seals in situ. Really wanted to pay someone to do it, but absolutely nowhere round here will touch it. Best offer I had was they could whip it off and send it away for recon. 500 just for the pump, not including labour and it can take upwards of 10...

My insurance wanted to rise from 200 to 600. After a lot of ringing around I managed to get it down to 400. Which is wild because I have 15 years no claims and if I ever get in a bender even minor, they'll just write it off.

I've been debating replacing the passenger arm with another driver arm so it is shorter. When I fit a short blade to not overlap the edge or the screen it leaves me with a huge unswept area.

I have to keep the lower part or the pump inside the bottom left corner of the fuel panel. Anywhere else it snaps shut all the time.

Too much gas added? I've seen a car where the owner used one of those DIY top up kits. Pressure was higher the Snoop Dog. We pulled twice the amount of gas needed for his car.

The intake does have visible oil, if the weather holds out this weekend I plan on removing the cold side to give the turbo a wiggle and clean out all the residue. Because it only happens when the revs dip my brain went with the oil is choking the engine causing the dip, rather than the dip...

Would those items cause blue smoke? I've got the details for a landy specialist round here to try and plug it in to see what it says. Not many places in the south west will touch a P38. Aircon isn't on (removed the belt a year or so ago), so I know that's not an issue at least.

So, as mentioned in other threads I'm picking my head at why she idles badly. Really rough and drops out on a whim. Today while putting air in a tyre I noticed when the revs dip I get a puff of blue smoke out the exhaust. My first thought was PCV dumping oil for fun, but then toyed with the...

When my ABS was kicking my arse, I taped over the circuit board that the bulb holders touch, and then wired ABS to the battery light, and the TC to the oil pressure light. Worked a treat. Although when I disassembled the contraption I shorted the oil pressure light, and now it doesn't like up at...

Assume that is the same as kunifer? What I always used when I was a civvie VM. Bit harder to manipulate but would outlive the car.

Ah well, got the tool on the way now. Can add to the collection of tools I've assembled for jobs I won't be doing all that often. Always got it on hand if anyone else is in need.

Well, that didn't go to plan. I thought whoever referb'd the FIP had replaced the antitamper bolt. They had not. I ordered the socket (I don't have any fasteners to replace it with so didn't want to drift on a regulat socket) and just cleaned up everything on and around the FIP so while I drive...

Started the FIP seal replacement. Such cramped engine bay for such a big car.

Fair point, if it is a smooth surfact you need to index it first with an abrasive.

I use araldite for everything. Cheap enough and sticks well. We use it to protect blade tips in the desert. If it can survive that, I am sure it'll work to stick a panel to a Landy.