I'll bite. Standard modern 'technician' mentality, that. That's why we don't call them mechanics anymore. I thought the VCU was a truly unserviceable part and am more than happy for the OP to prove me wrong. It's admirable that someone has the curiosity, patience and skill to attempt a recon...

Gasket stamped with Klinger 02 10. In genuine wallet.

Stop looking for things. You could let your imagination run away with you. :) It's an old Freelander. Assembled in Solihull, England. It has plenty of idenified problems. ;)

Breaking down the prop shaft and VCU: Part II So, despite not being able to crack it with the UJ intact, this one wasn't too hard. A few sharp hits with the persuader and we're off. Hammer no worky... Sketchy puller setup no worky... Let's see how a good soaking works out...

Breaking down the prop shaft and VCU: Part I

LandyZone. Have a load of parts that need good homes. Nothing compatible with my vehicle so all for sale for super cheap. Most items £3 + postage. PM me if you want owt... Torfaen, South Wales, UK. LOT 1 - £3 Range Rover L322 door check strap - BDH760022 FRLH LOT 2 - £3 Range Rover L322...

Keep your chin up and stay positive. The weather will pass ;) If you feel it's safe, I'd suggest a good drive is what it needs. In my experience of stripping and cleaning formerly oily parts, a bit of smoke is normal for the first few miles. It's also symptomatic of your description in the first...

Started breaking the old prop shaft and VCU apart today as it happens. Safety third. :rolleyes: Image-fest to follow...

Indeed :) Only way I can really test it I believe. Previous owner took prop off so I've never seen it working. If the VCU had seized prior to removal, I'd expect to see some damage on the pinion and crown wheel, no? Because I found no damage or even many filings, I can only assume the VCU is...

I hope not! Prop shaft been off for ages, though. Carrier bearings are knackered so the pinion is just spinning for nothing. Decided to remove it in't interest of preservation. Wanted to investigate the IRD to look for evidence of VCU failure. Need to be sure it's worth repairing the prop and...

I believe 'the book' says one needs to remove the IRD to remove/replace the turbo. You can see why a garage would want you to sell a kidney to carry out the work :D

Nope. It's all accessed from underneath. Only the bolts that connect the turbo to the exhaust manifold are accessible through the air box (3 x rubber bungs nearest the MAF sensor) . If you want to check play, you have to reach up and pinch yer fingers into the turbo intake. I took the solenoid...

Half inch is best. It's a long way. Or match your biggest ratchet size if you want ter do it cheap. ;) Things are also a lot easier with the wheel off. :oops:

You're welcome. Follow this post and you'll be fine. https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/how-to-change-turbo-on-a-td4.221780/#post-2510752 Having done the job recently, it isn't as daunting as it seems. Just make sure you've loads of ratchet extension bars on hand for the hard-to-reach...

Nice. Some bodge fixes can really be as reliable as a correct parts, then? It was the high temperatures that concerned me. I thought lots of heat + paper gasket could come back to bite me in the proverbial. Done 400 motorway miles on the new turbo without a drop of oil getting past the seal. I'm...

IRD cleanup and blanking plate installation...

As a distraction from my turbo bungle, thought I'd investigate the IRD once the new filler and drain plugs arrived. For once, it was straightforward and there were no nasty surprises. The filler plug was well stuck on there thanks to the copper washer but it came off without damage. Drain plug...

If you pull the breather return hose off you'll be left with a hole in the turbo intake pipe. The one that goes from the air filter/MAF sensor to the turbo inlet. You'll need to plug it to maintain measured air intake.

As far as I can make out, you get leaky turbo seals under two conditions; 1) Excessive crank case pressure causing the return oil flow to be resisted. The oil will try to find a new way out of the positively pressurised oil pathway and make it's way past the seals into the air side. Therefore...

Reckon that's sensible. Fitted the vortex 6 months ago and it remained dry for a while. Lately noticed quite a build up of oil in the intercooler and hoses. Potentially misdiagnosed it as failing turbo seals and replaced the unit. The PCV is allowing a lot of oil back into the air manifold...