I'm tumescent with anticipation of the new turbo which obviously isn't here. Most of the other required bits are, though and we've err'd considerably on the side of caution. New solenoid, MAP sensor, silicone vacuum hose and turbo to intercooler hose. Hopefully it digs me out of that hole.

The IRD blanking plate represents something entirely different. I'm [still] waiting on the filler and drain plugs to arrive from Rimmer before getting into that. o_O

New HD drop links, track rod ends and ARB bushes show I'm reasonably confident I can fix the turbo issue. Or very, very stupid. You decide. :D

suWCiI2.jpg
 
Colthebrummie said:
Makes yer wonder why people rave on about Diesel engines. They seem to be nothing but expensive trouble.
Click to expand...

I hear you, @Colthebrummie and some days I really wonder why we do it. I reckon with regular maintenance and sensible preventative work, the TD4 would be as reliable as anything else.

This one had clearly been neglected for a long time. Some simple jobs on the previous owner's part and a bit of TLC would very likely prevented this. Now I'm picking up the pieces, and the bill.

To be fair, the cost of the vehicle and parts (so far) has not exceeded the price of buying a Freelander that runs well. We got it cheap and, as I'm from up North, I only spend proper money where I have to. If I can repair something, I'll try that first. It's about imagination.

For example:
The coolant expansion tank has the inevitable cracks around the neck. We didn't buy a new one. Just keyed the surface and hit it with half a dozen coats of clear lacquer. Because that's what I had lying around. Should maintain pressure long enough for me to eat the apple pies ;)

s4ClW8C.jpg
 
Last edited:
Turbo done. The new unit arrived but without the gaskets and I'd really had enough of waiting to get this done. Out came the wire wheel and the gasket paper along with copious liquid gasket.

We're golden. Or we're not. I genuinely have no idea whether it will work long term. Photos from two weeks ago and it hasn't leaked yet. Besides, we've been busy elsewhere and potentially have bigger fish to fry. I may not have had to replace the turbo at all... :eek:

OiXLqA0.jpg

dFeIW2q.jpg

Ym6IgbP.jpg

daaEyQQ.jpg

HIsetp1.jpg

wvkm270.jpg
 
Last edited:
To preserve the alleged 'warranty' on the turbo, we're compelled to do some checks. These checks involved lots more bits coming off the hippo. After some resistance from the most awkward bolt (inside the hatch in the wheelarch) the bumper is removed to reach the intercooler. Sump pan off, inspect pickup, 'test' the crankcase breather, as well as the oil feed and return for the turbo bearings. Also replaced all the fuel line I'd used for vacuum hose with lovely, slippery silicone and secured it all sensibly.

The intercooler was filthy. To my surprise, the crankcase was not...

dYVlqEX.jpg

FwjX1sU.jpg

9aEmPlH.jpg

TzWkC6X.jpg

uNexkZu.jpg

QDBPj6f.jpg

Xg7Qxr4.jpg

5NhVR29.jpg

qEGpHGI.jpg

Oxhzazn.jpg

bhOeWeb.jpg

NyMaSF6.jpg

or0jOLx.jpg
 
As a distraction from my turbo bungle, thought I'd investigate the IRD once the new filler and drain plugs arrived. For once, it was straightforward and there were no nasty surprises. The filler plug was well stuck on there thanks to the copper washer but it came off without damage. Drain plug was easy. The oil was a bit dark but looked and smelled OK. The lack of metal chunks and metallic sheen put a smile on me face. The drain plug magnet had some filings on but nothing I'm worried about. Decided to pull the pinion out completely and blank the cavity with a stout 6mm cover plate. Pinion is in remarkable condition considering the state the prop shafts and support bearings had got into. Finally, some half decent news.

JEEHmSo.jpg

U0BJv1b.jpg

FUsKbji.jpg

536XrNp.jpg

l96cbxs.jpg

rggf0SR.jpg

dDla8dw.jpg

MbQ34XT.jpg
 
weemac said:
Turbo done. The new unit arrived but without the gaskets and I'd really had enough of waiting to get this done. Out came the wire wheel and the gasket paper along with copious liquid gasket.

We're golden. Or we're not. I genuinely have no idea whether it will work long term.
Click to expand...
I helped one of my son's friends to make a 1/4 inch thick gasket to go between the carb and the inlet manifold on his Dis-Astra estate. He had tried all the silly-cone gasket goo's but they just got sucked into the engine; Pox-all wanted silly £40's for a new part.
We made a multilayered gasket out of old fashioned thick gasket paper all stuck together with red hermetite that was 2 years ago. Its still working fine! :D
 
DanClarke said:
We made a multilayered gasket out of old fashioned thick gasket paper all stuck together with red hermetite that was 2 years ago. Its still working fine! :D
Click to expand...

Nice. Some bodge fixes can really be as reliable as a correct parts, then?
It was the high temperatures that concerned me. I thought lots of heat + paper gasket could come back to bite me in the proverbial. Done 400 motorway miles on the new turbo without a drop of oil getting past the seal. I'm going to stop thinking about it :D
 
Last edited:
I hope not! Prop shaft been off for ages, though. Carrier bearings are knackered so the pinion is just spinning for nothing. Decided to remove it in't interest of preservation.
Wanted to investigate the IRD to look for evidence of VCU failure. Need to be sure it's worth repairing the prop and that I'm testing the VCU on a sound IRD. Looks rosy.
 
The usual reasons for removing the propshafts are because of knackered bearings or VCU seizing up. Are you familiar with the "one wheel up" test? You'd need to refit everything to do it but it will tell you if your VCU is working or not.
 
DefenderPilot said:
Are you familiar with the "one wheel up" test? You'd need to refit everything to do it but it will tell you if your VCU is working or not.
Click to expand...

Indeed :) Only way I can really test it I believe.

Previous owner took prop off so I've never seen it working. If the VCU had seized prior to removal, I'd expect to see some damage on the pinion and crown wheel, no? Because I found no damage or even many filings, I can only assume the VCU is still in reasonable enough condition to put back into service. Or at least fit and test.

I'm looking forward to new bearings and getting it all back together :D
 
Started breaking the old prop shaft and VCU apart today as it happens. Safety third. :rolleyes:
Image-fest to follow...

AzRmoiV.jpg
 
Breaking down the prop shaft and VCU: Part II

oC6mfZf.jpg


So, despite not being able to crack it with the UJ intact, this one wasn't too hard. A few sharp hits with the persuader and we're off.

4lNqFkv.jpg


Hammer no worky...

HXxP4Jb.jpg

uh8gTRJ.jpg

Rzvhs4o.jpg


Sketchy puller setup no worky...

Ts97nGx.jpg


Let's see how a good soaking works out. Otherwise, I'll take a trip to a garage for once and have it properly pressed off o_O

To be continued...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Matt2000
Geoff the 2002 Freelander
Replies
5
Views
1K
Matt2000
Matt2000
T
Rear Seatbelts Freelander 3 door 2002
Replies
4
Views
514
Nodge68
Nodge68
weemac
Intro: Baptism of fire - Freelander S TD4 (2002)
Replies
11
Views
1K
weemac
weemac
andyfreelandy
For Sale Breaking 2003 Freelander 3 Door TD4 Manual Monte Carlo Blue
Replies
5
Views
1K
Spambunny
Spambunny
Varden Power
FREELANDER 1 AUTOMATIC Gearbox Problem JATCO TD4
Replies
0
Views
1K
Varden Power
Varden Power